It had been in the back of my mind a long time ago. But I
never thought it would happen this summer—a back-to-back sojourn to the two
capital cities of Negros Island, Bacolod and Dumaguete—with just a backpack and
a camera in tow! It sounded farfetched
at first but, to my delight, things began to fall into place.
Fate seemed to be beckoning me towards Negros this
summer. I’d been trying to book a trip to one of the tiny islands off Cebu’s
coast but to no avail. When that sojourn finally went kaput, I found myself
making a detour to Dumaguete instead. Then, after a brief lull, I was off to
Bacolod for a long-delayed return!
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| San Sebastian Cathedral |
Two capital cities. Two provinces in one big island. Two
sojourns. Two weeks apart. Geez, it was one of the most exhilarating journeys
ever cooked up by this incorrigible gadabout who draped himself like a recluse
during his first sortie to the City of Gentle People and then donned the mask
of a reveller in the City of Smiles!
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Bacolod City Government Center
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Coming close on the heels of my Holy Week escapade in
Dumaguete, the Bacolod sojourn had long been in the back burner. On several
occasions, I’ve been prodded by some friends there to come over. But something
always got in the way, leaving me no choice but to keep on postponing the trip.
This May, however, I vowed to make it to Bacolod at all
cost. Truth be told, I’d been surfing for cheap fares since late last year!
Patience paid off when I finally got myself a promo rate. So, with my backpack
and Nikon in tow, I went on to catch the early morning direct flight to Bacolod
one long weekend.
I’ve been looking forward to stage a comeback to the
city and some nearby places of Negros
Occidental. Let’s just say I yearned for a comeback because of F4 and then some
more: the FOOD I’ve savored, the FRIENDSHIPS I’ve made, the FEASTS I’ve been treated to, the FUN I’ve
had, plus a host of other reasons.
This recent sojourn is most memorable to me because I had
the privilege of being hosted once again by one sweet Bacolodnon who’s the
epitome of the “smiling people” the city
is associated with—mi amiga Minnie!
The lady is the consummate tour organizer, travel guide, host and
entertainer—all rolled into one!
Just like my previous sojourn to Bacolod, Minnie and
hubby, Jim, and the rest of my Bacolod-based friends (Bobby and wife, Betty
and, of course, Mia, who was vicariously
with us even though she’s in nearby Iloilo) left no stone unturned to
make our recent invasion of the City of Smiles so unforgettable.
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Inside the Church of the Angry Christ
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After fetching me, travel buddy Letty and her daughter,
Abby, at the airport, Jim and Minnie took us to Victorias City where we had the
privilege of stepping into the rarified confines of the hacienda where
Victorias Milling Company operates. VMC is said to be the “world’s largest
fully integrated sugar refinery.”
The highlight of the VMC tour was our first peek at the
one-of-a-kind mural of The Angry Christ by Pinoy artist Alfonso Ossorio. Geez,
we had a lot of selfies with the vintage steam train used to haul sugarcane
from the fields, the carabao sundial and the chimneys inside the sugar
refinery, among others.
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Gaston Mansion
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Later, the gracious couple also joined us as we embarked
on a heritage walk in the ancestral homes of Silay City; discovered the unique
and exotic in the quaint town of Manapla; frolicked at Campuestohan Highland
Resort in nearby Talisay City and later dined with us and our other pals up in
the hills of Murcia!
As what I’m accustomed to do, I tried figuring out the
origin of the city’s name. From what I’ve read on a brochure at the hotel where
I was billeted, “Bacolod” came from the Hiligaynon word, buklod, or stone hill. The old settlement that grew into the highly
urbanized city, was originally located on a stone hill!
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| Campuestohan Highland Resort |
After it was pillaged by the Moros, the settlers moved to
the lowland near the shore, which eventually became the current location of the
city. Facing Guimaras Strait, Bacolod serves as the gateway to Negros
Occidental as well as the center of its governance, trade, finance, commerce
and education.
Bacolod, I believe, had me by the tongue twice. First,
when I learned my first words of Hiligaynon, the mother tongue of Pinoys living
in Western Visayas. Arguably, it’s my familiarity with the language spoken with
such mellifluousness by my kins in Iloilo and Antique that have helped me blend
well in the City of Smiles.
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Felicia's Cakes: A taste of Bacolod's sweet temptations
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Having been born and raised in Mindanao, I, however, have
trouble speaking the lingua franca with fluency. But I can understand it—well,
enough not be taken for a ride by loonies. Modesty aside, I’ve got this
confidence that I could get away with anything in the city by just flashing a
sweet smile! LOL!
Bacolod had me by the tongue once again when I tasted my
first piyaya many years ago, even if
I grew up gobbling durian candies, tarts, jam and all. It was such a sweet,
mouth-watering experience that left in me a craving to have more of the
delicacy, which leaves a lasting sugary aftertaste in the mouth.
Arguably, the sweetness of the City of Smiles seems to
have been blended into the irresistible delights awaiting the sweet tooth at
these three wonderful discoveries: Calea, Felicia’s and Virgie’s. Their
delectable offerings are simply mind-blowing! I should know—I’ve made it to all
three!
An escapade in Bacolod isn’t complete unless one has gone
to Calea and Felicia’s. Both establishments offer a wide array of choices of
cakes and pastries of all sorts—a haven for the foodies visiting Sugarland!
Calea’s sans rival is truly without equal while Felicia’s mint cake is
absolutely food for the gods!
Virgie’s, on the other hand, offers pasalubong treats like napoleones,
butterscotch, caramel tart, meringue, and much, much more.
(to be continued)
After fetching me, travel buddy Letty and her daughter,
Abby, at the airport, Jim and Minnie took us to Victorias City where we had the
privilege of stepping into the rarified confines of the hacienda where
Victorias Milling Company operates. VMC is said to be the “world’s largest
fully integrated sugar refinery.” 
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