Sunday, October 14, 2018

Tantalized by Tagbilaran City's Tranquility


To the world-weary weekend warrior who's long been in the big city pent, a quick escape to nowhere is definitely a journey well spent; 'tis the flight of fancy that douses the fires of doubt and discontent. Somewhat John Keats-ish, all right, but this best describes what I feel whenever I run away to extricate myself from the tensions of urban life.

Bohol Strait



I’ve been breathing the air of the big city the moment I came into this world. It's where my school and work are, it's where my family and friends live. Not counting the times that I had vacays up there in the mountains, in a desolate woodland, or some remote island, I‘ve practically spent all my life in one of the biggest cities of the world!


Tagbilaran's port is one of the major entry points to Bohol 



There are times, however, when urban living gets on my nerves, making me wish I’m in some tranquil place far and away from the madding crowd. You see, everyone wants a piece of you in the big city. People hustling to get something, anything, everything you have—from that cash in your pocket to your seat in the resto to your queue at the movie ticket booth to your slot in the parking lot, not just sometimes but most of the time! Yes, times like that I can't help but hate to be in the big city. 








Port of Tagbilaran at dusk



There are certain cities, however, that make me feel the opposite. Tagbilaran, the gateway to the alluring island province of Bohol in Central Visayas,  is one of them. When I'm there, I always feel at home, relaxed, unperturbed by the cares of the world. The manifold charms of this seaside city that overlooks the cerulean waters of Bohol Strait never fail to soothe my senses.

Casa Rocha-Suarez, one of the oldest Spanish-era villas in Tagbilaran



Here’s an urban center that, at first blush, looks and feels more like one of those old port towns in many Philippine provinces rather than the capital of one of the country’s most popular islands that attracts hordes of tourists from here and abroad. Geez, there's something tantalizing about the laid-back and tranquil rhythm of life that it exudes! 


Tagbilaran's soon-to-be-completed new City Hall










Dubbed as the “City of Friendship and Peace”, Tagbilaran, affectionately called Tagbi by the locals, is one of those destinations where you’re warmly welcomed by friendly folks, where you get to experience the typical Boholano geniality and hospitality, where you feel safe and secure walking in the streets even at night. You hardly see litter and rubbish in public spots, you need not worry about traffic as it’s light, and you can count by the fingers the commercial establishments that are open round-the-clock. That's why I always look forward to visiting the city time and again.

Sunset over Bohol Strait
































Unfortunately, not much information is available about the history of Bohol's lone city. From what I’ve read so far, it was already a flourishing settlement that had trading relations with China, Malaya, and other ancient Asian kingdoms long before Spain came into these shores. Several years following Spain's abortive foray in Cebu, conquistador Miguel Lopez de Legazpi set foot in Bohol in 1565 and established friendly ties with the local chieftain, Datu Sikatuna, which was consummated through the historic blood compact, locally known as sandugo


Lite Port, one of the city's popular tourist hubs









Hailed as the first treaty of friendship between two disparate parties of different color, creed, and culture, it was sealed through the historic event that's been immortalized in Juan Luna's painting. Every year, Boholanos from all over the world come back to their homeland to commemorate this significant event through the Sandugo Festival, a month-long celebration that kicks off with Tagbilaran's Charter Day on July 1. 


Island City Mall (ICM)



When Spain was ruling the country, Tagbilaran used to be part of Baclayon, its neighboring town, until February 9, 1742, when Governor-General Gaspar dela Torre signed a decree establishing the town of San Jose de Tagbilaran (simply known now as Tagbilaran). Through the years, it thrived and became a chartered city on July 1, 1966 by virtue of Republic Act No. 4660.


The city's main thoroughfare, Carlos P. Garcia (CPG) Avenue



Tagbi is made up of about fifteen barangays, four of which comprise the city’s urban and central business district. Its agricultural lands and fishing grounds may be few and far between but the city makes up for these inadequacies through its strategic position as Bohol’s center for education, information and communications technology, business, trade and industry as well as the seat of the provincial government and main gateway to the whole island. 

Here are some interesting landmarks worth taking a peek at whenever you make it to Bohol's tantalizing capital:

New home of the National Museum-Bohol Branch



Bohol Museum. Right smack in the heart of the city, the Bohol Museum a.k.a. National Museum of the Philippines-Bohol Branch is one interesting destination worth your while. Years ago, the museum used to be located inside the city library, beside the old Provincial Capitol, near Plaza Rizal. Recently, it was relocated to the 158-year old capitol building after the provincial government transferred its headquarters to a new, sprawling complex.














Why visit this landmark? For me, adding this to the itinerary gives you fresh ideas and new perspectives about the island province, especially if you’re a first-timer. A walk-through around the Bohol Museum will make you feel like you’re seeing the whole province in one sweep—in one building at that! You’ll also get that vicarious feeling of witnessing Bohol's metamorphosis throughout the centuries. 





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Miniature of the old Bohol Provincial Capitol





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Some works of National Artist Napoleon Abueva are on display at the museum




And what's in store for visitors? A lot. It's a veritable treasure-trove of historical artifacts, relics, and what have you, showcasing the beliefs, traditions and culture of Bohol, not to mention the current efforts to restore the national cultural treasures and other important cultural properties in the Visayas through the exhibit entitled "Pagbanhaw". Lucky me, I was able to catch that exhibit as well as "Pagpauli", the homecoming exhibition of Napoleon Abueva, National Artist for Visual Arts (Sculpture), who's also recognized as the "Father of Modern Philippine Sculpture"! His masterpieces are on loan by his heirs to the Bohol Museum for a limited time.

Some of Abueva's tools in creating his masterpieces



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Plaza Rizal. Fronting the Bohol Museum, Tagbilaran's public square used to be called Plaza del Principe. A monument to the country's national hero, Dr. Jose Rizal, stands right at the center. It was undergoing some renovation during my visit so I didn't bother taking some snaps when I was there. 

Feeding doves: a must do at Tagbilaran's town square



Surrounding the park are several trees that provide shade and shelter to standbys and passersby. Below them are concrete benches (that had seen better days) where people can sit back, relax and take a break from their mundane concerns. Given its accessibility, the park is a favorite sanctuary  of those who want to meditate, take a stroll, meet someone, or engage in small talk. 

What drew me to this park are the flocks of doves that attract not only the locals but also visitors who enjoy feeding the fowl. Recently, I found time to chill with the winged creatures. Like the others, I bought some peanuts from itinerant vendors in the park and fed them to the birds. Geez, I was ecstatic when they started swarming around me as I offered them some nuts! A few of them were so spunky they even landed on my palm, my shoulders, and my lap just to get their fair share of my goodies! 

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St. Joseph the Worker CathedralSaid to be one of the six original churches in Bohol that were founded by the Jesuits in 1595 and later administered by the Augustinian Recollects, St. Joseph the Worker Cathedral, which was named in honor of the city's patron saint, is the seat of the Diocese of Tagbilaran. The current church structure, however, dates back to the mid up to the late 1800s, after an older church that the friars built through polo (forced labor) of the natives was gutted by fire in 1798. 



From the plaza, I walked down the street and proceeded to the cathedral. Cruciform in structure, the huge edifice still looked pretty much the same, stunning and cavernous as the day I last saw it. It has a Neo-Romanesque façade embellished with corbel arches below the cornice. A portico leads visitors into the church's main entrance, with the statue of the patron saint standing prominently in front of it. On the church's right side, a historical marker narrates some interesting trivia about the Tagbilaran Cathedral. 

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The ornate retablo mayor of Tagbilaran Cathedral




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Entering the church, I was stricken with awe as I laid eyes once again on its fabulous interior that had just undergone a makeover as a consequence the magnitude 7.2 earthquake in 2013 wherein the cathedral sustained substantial damages. 



Trompe l'oeil at the ceiling of the Tagbilaran Cathedral

Part of the renovation was the enhancement/repainting of the church's Baroque-inspired retablo mayor (main altarpiece) and restoration of the trompe l'oeil depicting biblical scenes and catechetical themes that once adorned its ceilings many years ago. At first blush, the interior looked like one of those churches in Rome!

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President Carlos P. Garcia Memorial Park. Touted to be the largest park in the city, it fronts the site of the new Provincial Capitol of Bohol. Its construction is said to be a collaborative effort of Boholanos from all over the country and abroad as their way of paying tribute to one of island province's greatest sons—the late President Carlos P. Garcia, the fourth chief executive of the republic. 

Sitting on a hilly terrain, the sprawling park occupies about eleven hectares of land in the northern part of Tagbi. What could be more delightful on a lovely day than a leisurely stroll around that park? That's exactly what I did when I chanced upon that park. 


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There, I discovered the quiet charm of the greenery surrounding the park's vastness. As I kept walking, I found some peaceful oasis for relaxing amidst the hurly-burly of the city life–the perfect spot to enjoy a good dose of fresh air somewhere in one of Tagbi's less crowded parts.











As I explored the vast expanse, I stumbled upon the huge monument of marble base and life-size bronze statue of the former presidentanother masterpiece of Abueva, standing right up on a hilly part of the park fronting the soon-to-be completed Bohol Provincial Capitol.




















Ancestral home of former President Carlos P. Garcia 



Carlos P. Garcia Heritage House. Once the residence of the late president and his family in Tagbilaran, the two-storey ancestral house has been converted into a museum featuring souvenirs, paintings, tokens, and other mementos of the country's former chief executive. Built in the 1950s, the Garcia residence, which locals refer to as the "White House" given its predominantly white paint, is located just a few steps away from the Bohol Museum, Plaza Rizal and the Tagbilaran Cathedral. After a few attempts in the past, it was only during a recent visit that I finally saw the place.  

Through the concerted efforts of the late president’s foundation, an association of Boholanos, and the provincial government, the residence was restored and converted in 2006 into a permanent and well-regulated site that seeks to immortalize the memory of Garcia. As a result of the restoration work, much of the house's original furniture has been preserved, including his bed and work desk. A coffee shop has also opened recently at the grounds of the former Garcia ancestral home.

A quick tour around the house provided me glimpses of the man from the town of Talibon who was once the country's most powerful man—who's also a lawyer, a teacher, a poet, and a chess player. In 2009, the Garcia home was declared a heritage house by the National Historical Commission of the Philippines, under the management of the Provincial Government of Bohol. Admission is free but a donation box is provided at the entrance for those wishing to share something for the house's upkeep.



Sandugo: a monument to international peace and amity





Blood Compact Shrine. Found in the village of Bool, the shrine, for quite some time, was regarded as one of Tagbi's oft-visited landmarks. This is actually a monument commemorating the sandugo (blood compact) made between Legazpi and Sikatuna in 1565, framed with a breathtaking view of the Bohol Strait, a mangrove forest and nearby Panglao Island at the background. 

The work of art is positioned on an open and elevated platform wherein the central characters are depicted in five life-size images of men gathered around a table with the two leaders, Legazpi and Sikatuna, supposedly making a toast. Undoubtedly a  sculptural diorama of an epic moment in the country's history, I didn't miss the chance to capture it in a selfie. Guess what, I also got myself snapped by those itinerant photographers who later put my pic in a postcard!









Said to be a masterpiece of Abueva, the shrine is just three kilometers away from the downtown area and is  quite accessible since it’s located along Tagbilaran's coastal highway. Too bad, a boutique hotel now stands too close to the landmark, obstructing the spot where I once had a magnificent view of the seascape and Panglao Island. Ah, the horrors of crass commercialism!

Bohol Tropics Resort Hotel


Bohol Tropics Resort. Conveniently located along Graham Avenue on the western side of the city, Bohol Tropics is probably your ideal home away from home. Facing the sea and nearby Panglao Island, the resort hotel offers guests with a visually arresting view of the relaxing seascape. For those who haven't been to the island province, Bohol Tropics is undoubtedly your first step to the enchanting Bohol experience! 














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Accessible and affordable, the hotel is just a few minutes away from the city's central business district as well as the airport and the seaport. It boasts of 117 well-appointed rooms, all with either pool, garden, or bay views, positioned along the picture-perfect Bohol Strait. The accommodations range from relaxing suites to reasonably-priced standard rooms that would make your stay in the city truly an unforgettable one. 

One of Bohol Tropics' cool pools








Definitely a household name in the province, Bohol Tropics has long been the favorite den of visitors who want to stay near the city center but also wish to have some tranquility. Recently, I was lucky to book a room for myself in the well-known hotel. 

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More often than not, big cities can turn us into desperate weekend warriors craving for a quick, relaxing sojourn. If you feel the urge to run away every now and then from the hustle and bustle of life in the big city, then look no farther than Bohol. And a good starting point for that escape would be none other than its tantalizing capital. Without doubt, Tagbi isn't just your gateway to the island province; it's an enchanting destination in itself, a certified tourist magnet, a charming sanctuary for the worldly-wise urban dweller.

There's a plethora of reasons why I like to visit Bohol's capital—but it's the idyllic charm that tops 'em all. It's not too crowded, not too hectic, not too intimidating. Verily, it's nice to be shielded from the fuss and frenzy of the big city...if only for a weekend or so...in another smaller, cleaner, and quieter realm like Tagbilaran. So, book your trip now and be tantalized by its tranquility! 😍😍😍