Culture, creed and cuisine—these are just three of the many reasons why Vigan is part of my list of must-see old cities in the country. Long before it was recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999, stepping into the historic city was in the back of my mind mainly because of the things I've read about it—the significance of its history and culture, the strength of its spirituality and the sumptuousness of its culinary delights.
Vigan’s old-world charm and historical contributions have fueled my interest in the heritage city. Nearly five centuries old, the city is one of the few Hispanic towns left in the country whose structures have remained intact for hundreds of years. Ilocos Sur’s capital is well-known for its cobblestone streets and a unique architecture that’s a fusion of three architectural designs—Filipino, Oriental and European.
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Plaza Salcedo's lagoon, obelisk and fountain
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Calle Crisologo
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Once
called Bigan, the heritage city is believed to have been named after a lush green
plant that belonged to the taro (or gabi)
family known among Ilocanos as bigaa,
which grew abundantly near the banks of Mestizo River. Said to have been
founded by settlers coming from Fujian, a province in China, the flourishing
trading post’s name meant “beautiful shore” in Chinese.
Before
the Spanish conquerors came to town, Bigan was considered a vital trading hub
where Chinese and other Asian traders bartered their ceramics, silk, and other
goods with gold, animal skins, and beeswax brought by the Igorots and other
indigenous tribes of the Cordillera. In time, some of these foreign traders
settled in Bigan, intermarried with the locals and established enclaves that
came to be known as pariancillo.
During
his exploration of the northernmost part of Luzon, conquistador Don Juan de
Salcedo came to Bigan in 1572, renaming the old settlement into Villa
Fernandina de Bigan, in honor of King Philip II’s son, Prince Ferdinand, who
died at the tender age of four. The settlement became Ciudad Fernandina and later on,
Vigan, the third city founded by Spain after Manila and Cebu. Through the
years, it went on to play an important role in the making of Ilocos Sur’s
history.
In
2000, Republic Act 8988 became a law, paving the way for Vigan’s cityhood after
its overwhelming ratification by the people the following year. The said law
validated and recognized the creation of Vigan as a city (Ciudad Fernandina) by
virtue of the issuance of a royal decree in 1757 by King Ferdinand VI of Spain.
Vigan,
with its colorful past, achieved another recognition last May 2015 when it was
officially recognized as one of the New Seven Wonder Cities of the modern
world, together with Beirut (Lebanon), Doha (Qatar), Durban (South Africa),
Havana (Cuba), Kuala Lumpur (Malaysia) and La Paz (Bolivia). News about this
accomplishment only whipped up my desire to see the place.
It
wasn’t after three years though that the chance to step into Vigan finally came my way
during a weekend wandering with friends in some of the tourist attractions
found in the two Ilocos provinces. It was what I consider the crowning glory of my first-ever sojourn to the
Ilocos Region. So, here are some of the interesting landmarks that I bet will
make you love the city and feel vibrant when you’re in town:
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Calesas for hire near Plaza Burgos
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Plaza Burgos. A must-see when you make it to Vigan, this plaza is the smaller of the two public squares in the city. While Plaza Salcedo (the larger one) was built to pay homage to Vigan’s founder, conquistador Juan de Salcedo, Plaza Burgos was constructed to commemorate the martyrdom of Father Dr. Jose P. Burgos, one of Vigan’s revered sons.
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Plaza Burgos is the smaller of the two plazas in Vigan
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When
the Cavite Mutiny of 1872 broke out, Burgos, along with Father Mariano Gomez
and Father Jacinto Zamora, were implicated and subsequently put to death by
garrote on that same year in Bagumbayan (present-day Rizal Park) by Spanish
colonial authorities on trumped up charges of subversion. The three martyrs went on to
become Philippine history’s famous triumvirate of heroes, Gomburza, a portmanteau
of their surnames.
In
memory of one of its famous sons, Vigan has named this town square in honor of
the martyred priest. Anyone who wants to know some more about Burgos should
visit the plaza which has some information about the life of this hero, including
a statue that bears a striking resemblance to him.
These
days, Plaza Burgos is fast becoming identified with the empanadahan (the eatery where you can savor one of the Ilocanos’ mouth-watering
delicacies popularly known as empanada,
a
Spanish stuffed pastry filled with chopped or ground meat, vegetables, spices,
etc., that is either baked or fried. The row of empanadahan is situated on the eastern
edge of the plaza.
Plaza Salcedo. The sprawling
central park square, which is the larger of two plazas found in the city,
showcases the typical Spanish urban design wherein the public square is in the
middle of all the town’s important edifices. Surrounding the park are St. Paul
Cathedral, the Archbishop’s Palace, City Hall and the Provincial Capitol Building.
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Plaza Salcedo obelisk and lagoon
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Plaza
Salcedo was named in honor of the city’s founder, Don Juan de Salcedo, who subdued the natives, thus, paving the way for the creation of a
Spanish enclave in Ilocos. At the center of the plaza stands an obelisk
also named after him. A lagoon with a fountain was later added in the 1970s.
One
of the main attractions of the park is the fountain at the back of Rizal’s
monument. By day, it’s an engaging watering hole where people meet up, make small talk, play around, take selfies and groupfies and what
have you. At night, it turns into an exciting carnival that attracts hundreds of
people, locals and tourists alike, who come to witness the spectacle of its
dancing fountain.
Lasting
for 30 minutes, the fountain show starts at around 7 o’ clock every night, with
a repeat performance an hour later. Too bad, we failed to witness the performance as we
were having our dinner that night at Calle Crisologo. To my delight, I caught a
glimpse of the extravaganza as our bus en route to Manila passed by the plaza.
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Monument in honor of President Elpidio Quirino, one of Vigan's revered sons
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What’s
the historical significance of this plaza to Filipinos? Well, it was there where one of the greatest heroines in Philippine history met her untimely death. Gabriela Silang, the first Filipina to lead a revolutionary movement against Spain, was publicly hanged there on September 20, 1763.
Another
important landmark in the plaza is the life-size statue of the late President
Elpidio Quirino, one of Vigan's revered sons, who served as the sixth president
of the republic (1948-1953). The Quirino years are remembered by historians as
the time when "notable postwar reconstruction, general economic gains, and
increased economic aid from the United States” came about.
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Vigan Cathedral
|
St. Paul Metropolitan Cathedral. Part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site declaration for the historic town, St. Paul Metropolitan Cathedral stands as Vigan’s most prominent religious landmark. Looking resplendent in off-white, the huge structure faces Plaza Salcedo where the dancing fountain is located. To its right stands the Archbishop's Palace while to its left lies Plaza Burgos.
I've
long been wanting to capture Vigan’s most photographed edifice on camera. So,
when that chance finally came my way, I ignored all sorts of distractions, even
the persistent growls of my hungry tummy and the peevish calls of my feet for a
much-needed rest, as I took as many shots as I could of the awe-inspiring
church.
Officially
known as the Metropolitan Cathedral of the Conversion of St. Paul the Apostle,
the first structure of the present-day “neo-Gothic, pseudo-Romanesque and
earthquake Baroque-styled” church was built in 1574. Made of wood and thatch,
it was replaced by a stone church in 1641 that after it was destroyed by earthquakes
in 1619 and 1627. The restored structure was also gutted by fire in 1739. The
cathedral’s final form began to take shape in 1790 and saw completion ten years
later.
Its off-white façade may not be as impressive as that of the other old churches I’ve
seen in other parts of the country but its simplicity is rather remarkable.
Facing the cathedral, visitors are greeted by the statue of St. Paul sitting on
top of a jumping horse at the center niche of the façade—a sculptural depiction
of his conversion to Christianity.
Meanwhile, the cathedral’s grandiose interior is a stark contrast of its modest exterior. The ribbed ceiling, two huge pulpits, tiled flooring, three naves, twelve minor altars, brass communion handrails, choir loft, and a silver-paneled retablo mayor (main altarpiece) are among the outstanding elements that will readily catch the visitor’s attention. Ah, what a vision!
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Grandiose interior of the Vigan Cathedral
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Calle Crisologo. Probably the most
popular thoroughfare in the city, Calle Crisologo, I believe, has helped Vigan
become one of the country’s Museum Cities and UNESCO Heritage City. Everyone
who’s been there would probably agree with me that it was this street that
makes the heritage city such a standout among other Hispanic towns in the
country.
It wasn't until our last night in the province that my friends and I dropped by Calle Crisologo. Many of us couldn’t help but stand in awe at the wonderful
sight around us. It felt surreal being there that night and staring at all the
structures that have stood the test of time—two-storey ancestral houses that used to be the homes of the rich and powerful.
Most
of them share common features—steeply pitched tiled roofs, sliding capiz shell
windows, huge wooden doors and massive walls. Many of the existing structures
there are said to have been constructed during the mid-18th to late 19th
centuries. Today, a number of these have been renovated and restored through
adaptive re-use.
 |
Calle Crisologo at night
|
To
my chagrin, I forgot to bring my smartphone when we left our resort! Good
thing, I managed to tuck in my old digital camera that still worked magic. It
churned out several nice shots during my photowalk from one end to the other of
Vigan’s popular street. The following day, we went back and had lunch there. As I already got my phone, more photowalks afterwards, of course.
With
its cobblestone streets, ancestral houses, horse-drawn carriages (calesas),
native shops selling authentic Ilocano stuff like claypots (burnay), loom-woven blankets (abel) and other wares that give you a
vicarious feeling of being transported back in the glory days of old Vigan,
Calle Crisologo is one place you shouldn’t miss when you’re in town!
Casa
Leona. For foodies like me, the Ilocano cuisine is definitely one big reason to
feel vibrant when you’re in Vigan! And Casa Leona is one of the nicest places to
savor the best local dishes. Located along Calle Crisologo, this resto has wide
array of sumptuous treats to choose from—bagnet,
pinakbet, dinengdeng, embutido, longganisa, morcon, and whole lot more! The
price? Somewhat pricey but the food is awesome!
 |
Pinakbet pizza
|
Diners
can choose to eat either inside or outside the resto. There are a limited
number of tables inside though. Good thing, the owners placed some tables and
chairs right on the street for an exciting al fresco dining experience at
night! I guess dinner is the best time to be there—right along the cobblestone
street, with the dimly-lit old houses at the backdrop.
When our group got there, the place was packed with diners. We had to standby for several minutes to be seated inside. It was well worth the wait! The ambiance was light and easy, vicariously transporting people during the heydays of Ciudad Fernandina. As expected, the food was superb, especially the bagnet and longganisa.
Heard about pinakbet pizza? It’s definitely a must-try at Casa Leona! It feels strange hearing it at first but wait till you get to taste the dish yourself. Here’s an authentic Ilocano fare that when used as a topping for a freshly-baked pie and spiced up with parmesan cheese and pepper could turn into one gastronomic delight that would delight your palate and dilate your pupils with glee!
The Cordillera Inn. Built
in 1885, this hotel along Calle Crisologo lets its present-day guests connect
with the past. Cordillera combines its original old-world charm and
character with modern-day amenities, luxury and technology. If you want to be where the past meets the present, then this is the place for you.
 |
Lobby of the Cordillera
|
Striking
a balance between the old and the new, each of the 24 elegantly designed rooms
and suites of the Cordillera feature comfortable single and double beds,
customized Ilocano furniture, mattresses as well as amenities like flat screen
TV, aircon, mini-ref, wi-fi connection, among others. Room rates are as
follows: Php2,500 (standard); Php3,000 (superior); Php3,500 (de luxe); Php4,500 (junior suite); Php5,000 (suite);
Php4,500 (superior family); and Php5,000 (de luxe family). These could vary from
time to time so better check with the hotel first before making any booking.
A wide array of authentic Ilocano dishes await diners who drop by the hotel’s resto located at the ground floor, next to the lobby. That's exactly what we did on our last day in Vigan—indulge ourselves to a casual yet exquisite lunch at the Cordillera after a tiring day of exploring the city's tourist come-ons.
Open to stay-in as well as walk-in guests, the resto makes diners feel they've been transported into a bygone era the moment they enter the dining area with its colonial architecture and charming ambiance. While waiting for our meals to be served, we spent idle time at the hotel lobby, reading newspapers, tinkering with our gadgets and taking occasional snaps here and there. I find that part of the Cordillera classic, cool and chic. Although it's small, the lobby’s cleanliness, simplicity and old-world atmosphere are admirable.
 |
|
When food was ready, we headed back to the resto for our super late lunch. If there's one thing about the Cordillera that I really appreciated, that would be service. From the moment we entered the dining place until the time we left, the accommodating staff was almost always at our beck and call. Of course, the mouthwatering fare that we had for lunch topped it all—bagnet, warek-warek, poqui-poqui, dinengdeng and longganisa! Obviously, they’re made from the freshest and quality ingredients as evidenced by their delightful taste.
 |
Warek-warek
|
Undoubtedly,
the city's vibrant atmosphere is so exhilarating. I can still feel the
energetic vibes of Ilocos Sur's capital even up to now. It really seemed like
my friends and I traveled back in time. Although weeks had passed since we went there, I still find myself so in love with Vigan, amazed by the warmth of its
people, attracted by the peculiarity of its historical neighborhoods, and, of
course, aroused by the taste of its homegrown delicacies.
So
there you have it. I’ve fallen in love with another city at first sight. I
thought I only had eyes for the old cities of Cebu, Bacolod, Silay and Iloilo
but then again, Vigan is something else. And as I complete this post about the
heritage city, I'm already looking forward to seeing it again! After all, I've
only seen a part of what Vigan has to offer to weekend warriors so believe me when
I say, I'm coming back—hopefully sooner rather than later.
Culture, creed and cuisine—these are just three of the many reasons why Vigan is part of my list of must-see old cities in the country. Long before it was recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999, stepping into the historic city was in the back of my mind mainly because of the things I've read about it—the significance of its history and culture, the strength of its spirituality and the sumptuousness of its culinary delights.
Once
called Bigan, the heritage city is believed to have been named after a lush green
plant that belonged to the taro (or gabi)
family known among Ilocanos as bigaa,
which grew abundantly near the banks of Mestizo River. Said to have been
founded by settlers coming from Fujian, a province in China, the flourishing
trading post’s name meant “beautiful shore” in Chinese.
Before
the Spanish conquerors came to town, Bigan was considered a vital trading hub
where Chinese and other Asian traders bartered their ceramics, silk, and other
goods with gold, animal skins, and beeswax brought by the Igorots and other
indigenous tribes of the Cordillera. In time, some of these foreign traders
settled in Bigan, intermarried with the locals and established enclaves that
came to be known as pariancillo.
In
2000, Republic Act 8988 became a law, paving the way for Vigan’s cityhood after
its overwhelming ratification by the people the following year. The said law
validated and recognized the creation of Vigan as a city (Ciudad Fernandina) by
virtue of the issuance of a royal decree in 1757 by King Ferdinand VI of Spain.
It
wasn’t after three years though that the chance to step into Vigan finally came my way
during a weekend wandering with friends in some of the tourist attractions
found in the two Ilocos provinces. It was what I consider the crowning glory of my first-ever sojourn to the
Ilocos Region. So, here are some of the interesting landmarks that I bet will
make you love the city and feel vibrant when you’re in town: 
In
memory of one of its famous sons, Vigan has named this town square in honor of
the martyred priest. Anyone who wants to know some more about Burgos should
visit the plaza which has some information about the life of this hero, including
a statue that bears a striking resemblance to him. 
One
of the main attractions of the park is the fountain at the back of Rizal’s
monument. By day, it’s an engaging watering hole where people meet up, make small talk, play around, take selfies and groupfies and what
have you. At night, it turns into an exciting carnival that attracts hundreds of
people, locals and tourists alike, who come to witness the spectacle of its
dancing fountain.
Another
important landmark in the plaza is the life-size statue of the late President
Elpidio Quirino, one of Vigan's revered sons, who served as the sixth president
of the republic (1948-1953). The Quirino years are remembered by historians as
the time when "notable postwar reconstruction, general economic gains, and
increased economic aid from the United States” came about. 
I've
long been wanting to capture Vigan’s most photographed edifice on camera. So,
when that chance finally came my way, I ignored all sorts of distractions, even
the persistent growls of my hungry tummy and the peevish calls of my feet for a
much-needed rest, as I took as many shots as I could of the awe-inspiring
church.
Officially
known as the Metropolitan Cathedral of the Conversion of St. Paul the Apostle,
the first structure of the present-day “neo-Gothic, pseudo-Romanesque and
earthquake Baroque-styled” church was built in 1574. Made of wood and thatch,
it was replaced by a stone church in 1641 that after it was destroyed by earthquakes
in 1619 and 1627. The restored structure was also gutted by fire in 1739. The
cathedral’s final form began to take shape in 1790 and saw completion ten years
later. 
Like
many churches in the Ilocos Region, the belfry stands apart from the main body
of the church. A large bronze weather vane featuring a white rooster (said to
represent St. Peter) tops the three-storey bell tower.
Meanwhile, the cathedral’s grandiose interior is a stark contrast of its modest exterior. The ribbed ceiling, two huge pulpits, tiled flooring, three naves, twelve minor altars, brass communion handrails, choir loft, and a silver-paneled retablo mayor (main altarpiece) are among the outstanding elements that will readily catch the visitor’s attention. Ah, what a vision!
It wasn't until our last night in the province that my friends and I dropped by Calle Crisologo. Many of us couldn’t help but stand in awe at the wonderful
sight around us. It felt surreal being there that night and staring at all the
structures that have stood the test of time—two-storey ancestral houses that used to be the homes of the rich and powerful.
Most
of them share common features—steeply pitched tiled roofs, sliding capiz shell
windows, huge wooden doors and massive walls. Many of the existing structures
there are said to have been constructed during the mid-18th to late 19th
centuries. Today, a number of these have been renovated and restored through
adaptive re-use. 
To
my chagrin, I forgot to bring my smartphone when we left our resort! Good
thing, I managed to tuck in my old digital camera that still worked magic. It
churned out several nice shots during my photowalk from one end to the other of
Vigan’s popular street. The following day, we went back and had lunch there. As I already got my phone, more photowalks afterwards, of course.
With
its cobblestone streets, ancestral houses, horse-drawn carriages (calesas),
native shops selling authentic Ilocano stuff like claypots (burnay), loom-woven blankets (abel) and other wares that give you a
vicarious feeling of being transported back in the glory days of old Vigan,
Calle Crisologo is one place you shouldn’t miss when you’re in town!
Casa
Leona. For foodies like me, the Ilocano cuisine is definitely one big reason to
feel vibrant when you’re in Vigan! And Casa Leona is one of the nicest places to
savor the best local dishes. Located along Calle Crisologo, this resto has wide
array of sumptuous treats to choose from—bagnet,
pinakbet, dinengdeng, embutido, longganisa, morcon, and whole lot more! The
price? Somewhat pricey but the food is awesome!
Diners
can choose to eat either inside or outside the resto. There are a limited
number of tables inside though. Good thing, the owners placed some tables and
chairs right on the street for an exciting al fresco dining experience at
night! I guess dinner is the best time to be there—right along the cobblestone
street, with the dimly-lit old houses at the backdrop. 
When our group got there, the place was packed with diners. We had to standby for several minutes to be seated inside. It was well worth the wait! The ambiance was light and easy, vicariously transporting people during the heydays of Ciudad Fernandina. As expected, the food was superb, especially the bagnet and longganisa.
Heard about pinakbet pizza? It’s definitely a must-try at Casa Leona! It feels strange hearing it at first but wait till you get to taste the dish yourself. Here’s an authentic Ilocano fare that when used as a topping for a freshly-baked pie and spiced up with parmesan cheese and pepper could turn into one gastronomic delight that would delight your palate and dilate your pupils with glee!
The Cordillera Inn. Built
in 1885, this hotel along Calle Crisologo lets its present-day guests connect
with the past. Cordillera combines its original old-world charm and
character with modern-day amenities, luxury and technology. If you want to be where the past meets the present, then this is the place for you.
Striking
a balance between the old and the new, each of the 24 elegantly designed rooms
and suites of the Cordillera feature comfortable single and double beds,
customized Ilocano furniture, mattresses as well as amenities like flat screen
TV, aircon, mini-ref, wi-fi connection, among others. Room rates are as
follows: Php2,500 (standard); Php3,000 (superior); Php3,500 (de luxe); Php4,500 (junior suite); Php5,000 (suite);
Php4,500 (superior family); and Php5,000 (de luxe family). These could vary from
time to time so better check with the hotel first before making any booking.
A wide array of authentic Ilocano dishes await diners who drop by the hotel’s resto located at the ground floor, next to the lobby. That's exactly what we did on our last day in Vigan—indulge ourselves to a casual yet exquisite lunch at the Cordillera after a tiring day of exploring the city's tourist come-ons.
Open to stay-in as well as walk-in guests, the resto makes diners feel they've been transported into a bygone era the moment they enter the dining area with its colonial architecture and charming ambiance. While waiting for our meals to be served, we spent idle time at the hotel lobby, reading newspapers, tinkering with our gadgets and taking occasional snaps here and there. I find that part of the Cordillera classic, cool and chic. Although it's small, the lobby’s cleanliness, simplicity and old-world atmosphere are admirable. 
When food was ready, we headed back to the resto for our super late lunch. If there's one thing about the Cordillera that I really appreciated, that would be service. From the moment we entered the dining place until the time we left, the accommodating staff was almost always at our beck and call. Of course, the mouthwatering fare that we had for lunch topped it all—bagnet, warek-warek, poqui-poqui, dinengdeng and longganisa! Obviously, they’re made from the freshest and quality ingredients as evidenced by their delightful taste.
So
there you have it. I’ve fallen in love with another city at first sight. I
thought I only had eyes for the old cities of Cebu, Bacolod, Silay and Iloilo
but then again, Vigan is something else. And as I complete this post about the
heritage city, I'm already looking forward to seeing it again! After all, I've
only seen a part of what Vigan has to offer to weekend warriors so believe me when
I say, I'm coming back—hopefully sooner rather than later.
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