Impressed by Ilocos Norte's Incredible Beauty (Part 1)

Nothing compares to the ecstasy and energy that Ilocos Norte evokes among those who dare venture into this fascinating destination in the Ilocos Region. Unlike any other place in the country, the province has an incredibly picturesque array of natural wonders that will leave you breathless and bewitched.

Welcome Arch 

Traveling by land from town to town, starting from Badoc to Pagudpud, is a one-of-a-kind experience that will not be easily forgotten. This, I experienced firsthand, during a two-day exploration of what I consider my northern exposure to what is billed as the “home of heroes” and what used to be one of the provinces that compose the late President Ferdinand Marcos’ bailiwick—the so-called Solid North. What made the sojourn exciting and enjoyable to the hilt was the company of some of my college chums who are weekend wanderers themselves.

Paoay Sand Dunes

Facing the West Philippine Sea, Ilocos Norte is a montage of astonishing and dramatic landscapes—sand dunes, unique rock formations, pristine beaches, magical waterfalls, craggy hills, arid flatlands and much, much more. This province at the northwestern part of the country’s largest island is the place to be for soul-searching city slickers, sun-worshipping bums and surprise-seeking wanderers who want something rough, out of the way, and extraordinary.

Stunning view of Cape Bojeador and the West Philippine Sea

Ilocos Norte offers a plethora of attractions that cater to the whims and caprices of almost all types of travelers—from adventure addicts to beach bums to heritage hunters to fickle-minded foodies. In just a few days, anybody who goes there can really enjoy to the max the many surprises that the province dangles to first-timers or frequent visitors.

Kapurpurawan Rock Formation

Of the 21 municipalities and 2 component cities (Batac and Laoag) that make up the province, we were able to pay a visit to at least five towns (Badoc, Bangui, Burgos, Paoay and Pagudpud) as well as the capital, Laoag. Come, get to know some of these interesting attractions found in those places I’ve mentioned to give you an idea of what awaits you as you tread into the province’s rustic and rugged realm. Let me start with Paoay.

Masintoc Sand Dunes (Paoay). Found in the village of Masintoc, the sandy barren expanse, which is part of the Ilocos Sand Dunes that encompass several towns of the province, provided the perfect backdrop for that helluva joyride that we had. What I initially thought to be a mere photoshoot there turned out to be the most delirious ride we ever took on the wild side!

Truly, the sand dunes of Paoay will challenge, nay, provoke you into pushing your own personal limits by taking that ride aboard a 4x4 jeep. Whew, it’s truly one for the books (or should I say blogs)! And speaking of blogs, I’ve already blogged about our adventure there, the full account of which is found at http://scorpio-sojourn.blogspot.com/2018/04/intoxicated-by-ilocos-nortes-sand-dunes.html.

Incidentally, the sand dunes are also one of the favorite locales of not only local but also foreign filmmakers. “Himala”, “Temptation Island” and the “Panday” series are just among the many local films that were shot partly or wholly in the desolate, sandy terrain.  Mind you, international filmmakers like Oliver Stone also went there to shoot his “Born on the Fourth of July” which was top-billed by Tom Cruise. So did George Miller who helmed “Mad Max” which starred Mel Gibson.

Malacañang of the North

Malacañang of the North (Paoay). Found near the shores of Paoay Lake, this mansion within a sprawling estate used to be the home of late President Marcos and his family. Usually part of the Ilocos tour packages, this house is said to be a gift of former First Lady and incumbent Congresswoman Imelda Marcos to her husband. Sequestered from the Marcoses after the dictator’s downfall, it was given back to the local government of Ilocos Norte and was later re-opened as a museum in 2011.

Known as Malacañang ti Amianan among Ilocanos, the house-turned-museum was still crawling with tourists when we arrived there at noontime. Entrance fee is 30 per head. Hopping out of our van, we then joined a noisy throng of visitors who went on a quick tour all over the former presidential residence. Out of curiosity, I joined my companions as we scoured the different parts of the house that had seen its heydays during the Martial Law years.

Given its size, the house has lots of space—outstretched living and dining areas, large rooms with high ceilings and huge capiz windows that sheltered the powers-that-be from the hot climate of the north. What caught my fancy are the stunning view of Paoay Lake and the well-manicured gardens that await visitors the moment they step into the lounge area at the ground floor or the veranda at the second floor. 

Paoay Lake

It may be enormous and elegantly furnished but I wasn’t exactly impressed with the whole house itself. Having seen more splendid old mansions-turned-into-museums in Bataan, Iloilo, Silay, to name a few, I felt that the former presidential residence wasn’t up to par.

However, I got fascinated with the wooden staircase leading to the upper floor, the 16-seater dining table as well as the numerous art pieces that hang on the walls. The life-size portrait of the former first lady—in full regalia—hanging prominently on one of the walls on the ground floor is an attention-grabber!

A glimpse of Paoay Lake from the veranda

St. Augustine Church. Clueless at the start  about our destination for our first day in the province, I was ecstatic to learn we’d be starting our tour with a visit to Paoay Church. Named in honor of St. Augustine of Hippo, the magnificent church is probably one of the most photographed in the country. Said to be one of the five churches that’s included in the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites as finest examples of the country’s Baroque churches, Paoay Church is a veritable work of art that has stood the test of time.

Work on the structure began in 1694 but it wasn’t until 1710 that it was fully completed. A typical earthquake Baroque church, it was made of baked bricks, coral rocks, salbot (tree sap) and lumber. Some 24 massive carved buttresses provide support to the structure. Both sides of the nave are lined with the most voluminous stone buttresses.

Icon of St. Augustine at the foyer of  Paoay Church

A unique fusion of Gothic, Baroque and Asian architecture, the church’s façade displays its Gothic affinity, its gables exude Chinese elements while the niches topping the walls suggest Javanese influence (reminiscent of the renowned Borobudur Temple). What caught my fancy was the church’s three-storey coral stone belfy that stands apart to the right of the church, one of the few bell towers in the country that stand apart from the main structure.

(to be continued)