With one of Corregidor's amazing guns |
For the record, I’m not some
bloodthirsty, trigger-happy fellow brandishing a fetish for guns, gore and
glory. But I did fire a rifle! And I managed to hit the target a number of
times during our ROTC combat exercises in college. But then again, I’m
basically a peacemaker, more of a lover than a fighter.
Even so, the history junkie—not
to mention the photography buff—in me had been insisting time and again that
“invasions” of historic places like Bataan and Corregidor should be part of my
bucket list. Having visited the Shrine of Valor at the summit of Mt. Samat in
Bataan, I thought it would be a historical milestone of sorts for me as a true
blue Pinoy if I made it to Corregidor this time.
Corregidor (a.k.a. Fort
Mills), one of the major battlegrounds in the Asia-Pacific region during World
War II, is the biggest among five small islands—the other four being Caballo
(a.k.a Fort Hughes), Carabao (a.k.a. Fort Frank), El Fraile (a.k.a. Fort Drum)
and La Monja—guarding the entrance to Manila Bay. Flanked by the equally
historic provinces of Bataan and Cavite, these islands fall under the
territorial jurisdiction of Cavite City (not Bataan as I’d thought).
Nestled 48 miles west of
Manila, the once heavily fortified island fortress, which is known as “The
Rock” because of its craggy landscape, is where anyone interested to know about
the Philippines’ involvement in the Pacific war can come to reconnect with the
not so pacific past. And reconnect I did recently.
The chance to see the Rock
came my way courtesy of Manila-based long-time friend, Juju, who accompanied
the five of us—Joel, Marisa, Minnie, Luz and Wines—to the tadpole-shaped island
one gloomy Saturday morning. Joining a throng of local and foreign tourists, we
headed for the historic battlefield, sailing from Manila aboard one of Sun
Cruises’ catamarans docking at the pier beside the Folk Arts Theater.
Cruising for over an hour in
the choppy waters of Manila Bay, our catamaran had a tough time dealing with
the strong currents which bashed it for the most part of the journey. Alas, the
turbulent motions of the boat triggered seasickness among a number of the
passengers—including Joel, Luz and me (my first time!). Good thing, I had the
foresight to bring along my reliable lifeline—a soothing liniment—which helped
tide me over the rough voyage.
Upon our arrival at the
island’s pier, all of us hopped into one of the tranvias owned by Sun Cruises.
Serving as our tour vehicle, the tranvia is an open-air public utility vehicle
plying around Manila during the early American times. It really seemed surreal
as we boarded the tram, making me feel like we were about to be transported
back in time. As the tranvia meandered through the well-paved roads of the
island, I tried to recall some of the things I’ve read about Corregidor’s
history.
MacArthur's monument |
It was America, however, who converted the Rock into a seemingly impregnable stronghold that would put to shame the fictional island fortress of Navarone and its formidable guns that are feared for their awesome firepower. In the early 1900s, the U.S. poured millions of dollars to develop Corregidor into a military reservation, establishing an army post named Fort Mills and deploying a battalion of soldier-engineers who worked on the embankments, bomb-proof shelters, roads and trails.
As part of the Rock’s fortification, the Americans put up an underground passageway known as Malinta Tunnel and installed 23 batteries on the island, consisting of 56 coastal guns and mortars. Initially used as a bomb-proof storage facility and personnel bunker, they later turned the tunnel into a 1,000-bed hospital. There was a separate fee for the facility tour so our group opted to skip it.
As the tram headed for the
middle side and topside sections of the island, we soon found ourselves gasping
at the plethora of vestiges from the last world war. I never knew what a
“theater of war” looked like until I saw those remnants of aggression that were
strewn here, there and everywhere in the island. Along the way, the tranvia
made about five stops to allow us to take snaps at the many interesting points
in Corregidor: General Douglas MacArthur’s Park, President Manuel Quezon Park,
Filipino Heroes Memorial, Battery Grubbs and the Eternal Flame of Freedom
Monument, to name a few.
Caballo Island |
After the fall of Bataan, Corregidor succumbed to the Japanese on May 6, 1942, with close to 12,000 Fil-American soldiers held as prisoners. Three years later, however, Allied forces under the command of General MacArthur recaptured the island, making good of his promise to liberate the country. He and his men thought of using a combination of airborne and amphibious assaults—quite a difficult maneuver considering the island’s terrain—to take back Corregidor. So, on the last days of February 1945, two weeks after executing the strategy and sacrificing so many lives, the Americans liberated the Rock, a victory regarded as the crowning glory of the Allied military campaign in the Pacific.
For more than three scores
now, the guns of Corregidor have fallen silent. But the remnants left in the island still echo with countless tales
of heroism that were valiantly displayed there. For this alone, I think
generations of Pinoys ought to pay homage to those who gave up their lives for
independence and democracy, keeping in mind that the freedom they are enjoying,
which, sadly, many seem to take for granted, would have remained a dream if not
for the thousands who sacrificed their lives in the Rock during those harrowing
days of the Pacific War.
I once told myself that if I
made it to the island, I’d be able to conquer one more historical place in the
Philippines. On the contrary, however, it was Corregidor which ended up
conquering my mind, heart and soul in more ways than one. Indeed, the island
had me at the tranvia. And who wouldn’t? There’s really no choice but to
surrender sweetly to the island’s historical charms.
Today, an average of 10,000
local and foreign tourists flock to the island every year. On this score, it
can be said that the Rock has succeeded in morphing itself from a war zone to a
tourist hotspot. But that doesn’t mean that tourism authorities can now be
complacent. For Corregidor to continue attracting more visitors, those managing
it must keep on creating more value-added services to shore up the island’s
competitiveness in the cultural-historical tourism market.
Why not consider offering
alternative rides to the Rock—a hot air balloon flight, a cable car drive, a
skydiving cruise, or a helicopter whirl—which would literally take tourists to
the next higher level? Any of these would certainly compel adventure junkies to
keep on conquering the island if only to experience these joyrides. Now, these
treats would surely make Corregidor rock! :D
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