Laoag may be but a small wedge of Ilocos Norte’s rustic and rugged expanse, but the city has a fair share of history, culture and adventure that would delight even the most jaded culture vulture. With a land area roughly the size of a few other cities in Luzon like Batac (Ilocos Norte), Calamba (Laguna), Legazpi (Albay), and Tuguegarao (Cagayan), the provincial capital is a tourist destination for weekend warriors craving for a sun-sea-and-sand vacay. It is, after all, the hub of everything Ilocano.
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Aurora Park
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For many weekend warriors, Ilocos Norte is the
must-see, must-experience haven in northern Philippines and its capital serves
as the gateway to one of the Philippines’ most interesting and incredibly
beautiful frontiers. Divided into two halves by the mighty Padsan River, Laoag,
which is one of the favorite tourist destinations in the province, is experiencing
a rising influx of visitors who make it their starting point for thrilling
escapades into the northernmost part of the country.
Like many other cities in the country, the city’s
name has an interesting story behind it. From what I’ve gathered, Laoag was
derived from the Ilocano word, “lawag”,
meaning “light” or “brightness”. Folklore has it that the old town once had a
clear, blue skyline (it still does until now!). It was from this premise,
perhaps, that the place was given the name “Laoag.”
Historical records show that Laoag was organized as
a town in 1585, becoming the first parish and first town in the northern
portion of the old, undivided Ilocos (Ilocos Norte, Ilocos Sur and La Union). On
January 1, 1966, it became a city by virtue of RA 4584 and has remained as the
province’s political and administrative hub as well as its commerce and trade
center up to the present time.
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Java Hotel and its Javanese-Moroccan-Ilocano-inspired architecture
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Arriving in the city after a grueling ten-hour ride, I quickly hopped out of the bus and hailed a tricycle that took me to Java Hotel, my home away from home for a few days while I was in the province for a visita iglesia during the Lenten break. Its unique blend of Javanese, Moroccan, and Ilocano architecture caught my fancy the moment I saw it online. Its rooms were on sale so I readily grabbed the hot deal they offered.
Laid-back. That’s how I’d describe my second visit. Unlike the first time, the recent one is well-paced, easygoing, and interesting as I got the chance to poke around some of Laoag’s most important must-sees. Honestly, I felt short-changed by that impetuous exploration of the city last year. I knew I had to come back for a solo sojourn to bum around, on my own terms, taking my own sweet time in exploring it. And I did a year later!
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Ilocos Norte Provincial Capitol
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It may not be my first time yet it still felt like the first as I didn’t have the chance to explore Laoag to the hilt
when I toured Ilocos Norte with some friends in 2018. We came to the city looking
for a place to dine and had a quick drive around the poblacion later. Three hours wasn’t enough for me though to form a
good impression about the city that’s remained one of the undisputed bailiwicks
of the Marcoses up to this day.
For me, those who visit the city should include the
following in their itinerary: the historic century-old Ilocos Norte Provincial
Capitol; Laoag Cathedral, which boasts of an Italian-inspired design, as well
as its sinking belfry; the spacious Aurora Park, and of course, Fort Ilocandia
Resort and Casino, to name some. Too bad, I missed the La Paz Sand Dunes,
Ilocos Norte Museum, and Plaza del Norte Hotel and Convention Center! I guess
they’re enough reasons for a third visit at some future time.
Ilocos Norte Provincial Capitol. Entering the city, the imposing building of the provincial capitol is
one of the first things that will catch the fancy of visitors. Standing
prominently with pride and honor on a sprawling area, it reached an important
historic feat when it turned a century old in 2018. Erected during the early
years of the American regime, the capitol serves as the hub of political power
and governance in Ilocos Norte.
Built between 1917 to 1925, the structure boasts of a Neoclassical
design by American architect Ralph Harrington Doane, complete with Corinthian
pillars that are prominent building features during the colonial era. Before becoming the center of provincial power, the
area where it is established used to be the headquarters of the United States
Army in the 1900s. A century hence, it still echoes the distinct Ilocano spirit,
character, and sense of progress.
Usually,
the capitol’s front lawns are bedecked with wonderful themes that suit any
occasion that the province celebrates—be it a fiesta, Halloween, or the
Yuletide season. season. Last year, the one hundred year-old building was recognized by
the National Historical Commission of the Philippines (NHCP) as a significant
historical landmark in Ilocos Norte.
Aurora
Park. Shaped like a tadpole, the park, which was named after former President
Manuel Quezon’s wife, boasts of a sprawling expanse located south of the Ilocos
Norte Provincial Capitol that tourists would readily notice as they enter
Laoag. Its most prominent feature is the huge letter standee bearing the name
of the city, positioned right beside the Tobacco Monopoly Monument. Of course,
I grabbed the chance to take some photos with the letter standee.
Incidentally, the Tobacco Monopoly Monument is another interesting marker found in the park. Initially, I paid little attention to it. When I began reading the inscription on the plate, I realized that it’s a historical gem as it signified the lifting of tobacco monopoly in the Philippines in accordance to the royal decree of King Alfonso XIII in 1881. It was erected in gratefulness for the king who put an end to the miseries of the Ilocanos who were forced to plant tobacco during the Spanish era.
Still another hallmark of the park is the huge
fountain with the statue of Pamulinawen, the headstrong maiden featured in a
traditional Ilocano folk song. The fountain is a celebration of the Ilocano farmers
and the two products the province is noted for, namely, garlic and tobacco. Too
bad, I didn’t get the chance to drop by Aurora Park at night. From what I’ve
gathered, it looks magnificent with all the lights, making it the favorite picnic
area for families, rendezvous for lovers, and pleasure ground for promenaders.
Laoag Cathedral. Dedicated to the city’s patron
saint, St. William the Hermit a.k.a. San Guillermo de
Ermitaño, the Laoag Cathedral was erected in 1612 by the Augustinians to replace
a wooden chapel, built using lime mixed with molasses, big stones, gravel and
sand. Wood was used for trusses to support the roof, originally made of cogon
grass but was later replaced with nipa and much later, to a corrugated
galvanized iron sheet.
Rebuilt in 1880, the creamy white church has an
unusual two-story façade, supported by two pairs of columns on each side of the
arched entrance. The top of the façade holds a recessed niche showcasing the
image of the city's patron saint. Its windows are made of capiz and supported with wrought iron grills.
What
sets the church apart from the others is its sinking bell tower, found 85 meters away from the main structure. The
belfry earned its “sinking” reputation because it is so enormous and built on a
rather sandy foundation. Mind you, the belfry is said to be dropping into the
ground at a rate of an inch a year! Good thing, I got the chance to see it and
take a few pictures before it sinks deeper into the ground!
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Fort Ilocandia Resort Hotel and Casino
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Fort Ilocandia. Sprawling on 77 hectares of land amidst gentle sand
dunes and 9 km of fine sandy beach, Fort Ilocandia Resort Hotel and Casino is
touted to be the only superior first class property in northern Philippines. I
managed to see this interesting landmark during my second day in Laoag.
From what i've gathered, the resort hotel has some
interesting history. It was supposedly built to house the guests for the
wedding of then presidential daughter Irene Marcos to Greggy Araneta in 1983.
Here, guests entertained themselves before, during and even after the wedding.
Originally owned by the government before it was sold to the private sector, this resort hotel complex is composed of five buildings all inspired by Spanish colonial architecture and finished in cool red bricks. It has 267 rooms with private balconies offering a view of the sea and possessing the features and qualities of Ilocano century-old living quarters and constructed to accentuate the antiquity of a colonial house.
Short as my visit was, I believe that the city enlightened
me and lightened up one of the most somber sojourns I’ve had recently. After
hopping from one town to another, one church to the next, the respites in Laoag
gave me the time to take stock of so many things I’ve taken for granted. It was
there where I began to see the light, so to speak. It was there where I saw
things in a new light, coming to terms with so many things in my life,
spiritual and otherwise.
Paris may be known as the “City of Light” worldwide, but in that corner of the world, the light that is known as Laoag to the Ilocanos illuminates one of the brightest tourism hotspots in the country. I can only hope it will continue to be the shining beacon that it is that would help propel the province into its rightful place in the sun. Who knows, it may soon have its own version of a “Festival of Lights” in the not-so-distant future? I bet that will be an interesting come-on that’s going to lead all roads up north. 🤩🤩🤩
Laoag may be but a small wedge of Ilocos Norte’s rustic and rugged expanse, but the city has a fair share of history, culture and adventure that would delight even the most jaded culture vulture. With a land area roughly the size of a few other cities in Luzon like Batac (Ilocos Norte), Calamba (Laguna), Legazpi (Albay), and Tuguegarao (Cagayan), the provincial capital is a tourist destination for weekend warriors craving for a sun-sea-and-sand vacay. It is, after all, the hub of everything Ilocano. 
Like many other cities in the country, the city’s
name has an interesting story behind it. From what I’ve gathered, Laoag was
derived from the Ilocano word, “lawag”,
meaning “light” or “brightness”. Folklore has it that the old town once had a
clear, blue skyline (it still does until now!). It was from this premise,
perhaps, that the place was given the name “Laoag.”
Historical records show that Laoag was organized as
a town in 1585, becoming the first parish and first town in the northern
portion of the old, undivided Ilocos (Ilocos Norte, Ilocos Sur and La Union). On
January 1, 1966, it became a city by virtue of RA 4584 and has remained as the
province’s political and administrative hub as well as its commerce and trade
center up to the present time.
Arriving in the city after a grueling ten-hour ride, I quickly hopped out of the bus and hailed a tricycle that took me to Java Hotel, my home away from home for a few days while I was in the province for a visita iglesia during the Lenten break. Its unique blend of Javanese, Moroccan, and Ilocano architecture caught my fancy the moment I saw it online. Its rooms were on sale so I readily grabbed the hot deal they offered.
Laid-back. That’s how I’d describe my second visit. Unlike the first time, the recent one is well-paced, easygoing, and interesting as I got the chance to poke around some of Laoag’s most important must-sees. Honestly, I felt short-changed by that impetuous exploration of the city last year. I knew I had to come back for a solo sojourn to bum around, on my own terms, taking my own sweet time in exploring it. And I did a year later!
For four straight nights, Laoag was my sanctuary
following my daily forays in the old churches and other attractions of Ilocos
Norte that are found in the towns of Badoc, Bangi, Batac, Paoay, Pagudpud and
Sarrat (For more about my sojourns to these towns, just click https://scorpio-sojourn.blogspot.com/2019/04/impressed-by-ilocos-nortes-incredible.html and https://scorpio-sojourn.blogspot.com/2019/04/impressed-by-ilocos-nortes-incredible_19.html). 
For me, those who visit the city should include the
following in their itinerary: the historic century-old Ilocos Norte Provincial
Capitol; Laoag Cathedral, which boasts of an Italian-inspired design, as well
as its sinking belfry; the spacious Aurora Park, and of course, Fort Ilocandia
Resort and Casino, to name some. Too bad, I missed the La Paz Sand Dunes,
Ilocos Norte Museum, and Plaza del Norte Hotel and Convention Center! I guess
they’re enough reasons for a third visit at some future time.
Ilocos Norte Provincial Capitol. Entering the city, the imposing building of the provincial capitol is
one of the first things that will catch the fancy of visitors. Standing
prominently with pride and honor on a sprawling area, it reached an important
historic feat when it turned a century old in 2018. Erected during the early
years of the American regime, the capitol serves as the hub of political power
and governance in Ilocos Norte. 
Built between 1917 to 1925, the structure boasts of a Neoclassical
design by American architect Ralph Harrington Doane, complete with Corinthian
pillars that are prominent building features during the colonial era. Before becoming the center of provincial power, the
area where it is established used to be the headquarters of the United States
Army in the 1900s. A century hence, it still echoes the distinct Ilocano spirit,
character, and sense of progress.
Usually,
the capitol’s front lawns are bedecked with wonderful themes that suit any
occasion that the province celebrates—be it a fiesta, Halloween, or the
Yuletide season. season. Last year, the one hundred year-old building was recognized by
the National Historical Commission of the Philippines (NHCP) as a significant
historical landmark in Ilocos Norte.
Aurora
Park. Shaped like a tadpole, the park, which was named after former President
Manuel Quezon’s wife, boasts of a sprawling expanse located south of the Ilocos
Norte Provincial Capitol that tourists would readily notice as they enter
Laoag. Its most prominent feature is the huge letter standee bearing the name
of the city, positioned right beside the Tobacco Monopoly Monument. Of course,
I grabbed the chance to take some photos with the letter standee.
Laoag Cathedral. Dedicated to the city’s patron
saint, St. William the Hermit a.k.a. San Guillermo de
Ermitaño, the Laoag Cathedral was erected in 1612 by the Augustinians to replace
a wooden chapel, built using lime mixed with molasses, big stones, gravel and
sand. Wood was used for trusses to support the roof, originally made of cogon
grass but was later replaced with nipa and much later, to a corrugated
galvanized iron sheet.
Rebuilt in 1880, the creamy white church has an
unusual two-story façade, supported by two pairs of columns on each side of the
arched entrance. The top of the façade holds a recessed niche showcasing the
image of the city's patron saint. Its windows are made of capiz and supported with wrought iron grills.
From what i've gathered, the resort hotel has some
interesting history. It was supposedly built to house the guests for the
wedding of then presidential daughter Irene Marcos to Greggy Araneta in 1983.
Here, guests entertained themselves before, during and even after the wedding.
Originally owned by the government before it was sold to the private sector, this resort hotel complex is composed of five buildings all inspired by Spanish colonial architecture and finished in cool red bricks. It has 267 rooms with private balconies offering a view of the sea and possessing the features and qualities of Ilocano century-old living quarters and constructed to accentuate the antiquity of a colonial house.
Short as my visit was, I believe that the city enlightened
me and lightened up one of the most somber sojourns I’ve had recently. After
hopping from one town to another, one church to the next, the respites in Laoag
gave me the time to take stock of so many things I’ve taken for granted. It was
there where I began to see the light, so to speak. It was there where I saw
things in a new light, coming to terms with so many things in my life,
spiritual and otherwise.
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