Surprised by Surigao del Sur’s Stunning Sceneries (Part 1)

Wild, windblown and winsome, Surigao del Sur had me at hello many years ago when work as a newbie researcher required me to travel to what was then a part of the Southern Mindanao Region (now Davao Region) before the elongated province eventually joined the newly-created Caraga Region. Perhaps it was the province’s ruggedly stunning beauty that captured my heart. There’s something about it that intrigued as well as challenged me as an adventure junkie.

Cagwait White Beach, dubbed as the Boracay of the Caraga Region

Found on the northeastern part of Mindanao, Surigao del Sur is one of the five provinces that comprise the Caraga Region, along with Agusan del Norte, Agusan del Sur, Surigao del Norte and Dinagat Islands. The province has two cities (Tandag and Bislig) and 17 municipalities (Barobo, Bayabas, Cagwait, Cantilan, Carmen, Carrascal, Cortes, Hinatuan, Lanuza, Lianga, Lingig, Madrid, Marihatag, San Agustin, San Miguel, Tagbina and Tago).

For years now, I’ve been planning to embark on my return to Surigao del Sur (which I fondly call SDS) for a journey to some of its interesting hideaways that I got to know from other bloggers. Sadly, my best-laid plans fizzled out on numerous occasions for one reason or another. I also had difficulty finding some travel buddies willing to go on a trek there.


Working for a UNICEF-assisted project, I used to visit SDS every now and then. Until recently, however, I didn’t get to explore its natural attractions due to time and safety constraints. The visits I made there were often structured and hurried, leaving little time, if any, for rest and recreation. Besides, the province wasn’t exactly a haven for tourists during those days.

The uproar of the Philippine Sea as it crashes on the shores of Cagwait

Time was when SDS was tagged as one of Mindanao’s hot spots; a no man’s land where even angels would probably fear to tread as many of its towns became battlegrounds of the bloody skirmishes between the government and rebel forces.

Although armed conflicts in that part of Mindanao have somewhat diminished through the years, a few encounters do happen every now and then in the hinterlands so taking a vacay in SDS isn’t for the faint-hearted nor the risk-averse. Adventure junkies who dare explore SDS are often advised to proceed with caution lest they could find themselves caught in an unfortunate crossfire that could erupt unexpectedly.

Part of the well-paved stretch that connects the different towns of Surigao del Sur

The desire to revisit the province kept burning in my heart through the years. I knew that it was only a matter of time before I could stage my return, with or without companions. Somehow, I managed to go there a few years ago but it was rather short and swift, leaving me with hardly any time to explore the stunning attractions I wanted to see in the towns of Cagwait, Cortes, Lianga, San Agustin and Tandag.

Lucky me! I had the time of my life as I went back to the province this summer, not for any work-related concern but for some weekend wandering during a much-anticipated sojourn that, for a time, I feared would be doomed to be just maudlin wishful thinking.

To my delight, Jiu, one of the younger members of my staff, signified his interest after hearing my plan to go to the province several weeks ago. A speed freak, photography buff, and adventure junkie, all rolled into one, he was so excited to accompany me as I went about my exhilarating journey back to SDS.

Surprised—this best sums up all my thoughts and feelings the moment I stepped once again into that picturesque part of Mindanao after such a long, long time. Oh, how the province, the people and the places have changed all these years! Geez, it felt so surreal and incredible! Truly, all things work together for good for those who patiently wait. 

Much has certainly changed since the last time I visited Surigao del Sur’s towns, particularly, Lianga, San Agustin, Maritahag, Bayabas, Cagwait and Tago. Travelers often pass by these places en route from Barobo to the provincial capital, Tandag. Where there used to be bad roads, there’s now a generally well-paved stretch that connects these towns to the capital. Where these used to be few people and vehicles moving around, there’s now a growing number of travelers and vehicles of all styles, shapes and sizes going to and from the numerous attractions found there. 

That it lies along the country’s typhoon belt hasn’t deterred people from exploring SDS these past several years. Truly, a growing number of intrepid travelers have been traversing the road less traveled to the province if only to savor the best that nature rewards those who are courageous enough to venture there. 


Recently, two of the province’s most popular attractions, namely, the majestic Tinuy-an Falls in Bislig City and the magnificent Enchanted River in the town of Hinatuan, are attracting hordes of tourists year-in, year-out.

Enchanted River in Hinatuan 

When you’re in Hinatuan, dive into the deep cerulean waters of the Enchanted River, whose shallow part flows out into the sea. At noon, you can feed the schools of orange fish and be mesmerized by the mystical sight of orange against blue! Of course, you shouldn’t dare miss Surigao del Sur’s awesome falls that’s being dubbed as the “Little Niagara of the Philippines”—Tinuy-an Falls! With an awe-inspiring drop of about 55 meters (180 feet) high and a width of about 95 meters (312 feet), the falls is said to be the country’s widest.

The magnificent Tinuy-an Falls in Bislig

I got to see these attractions, albeit quickly, when I joined a group of weekend wanderers on a sojourn to SDS for a rather sneak peek at these hideaways several years ago. For more about my old adventures there, just click http://scorpio-sojourn.blogspot.com/2010/05/entranced-by-surigao-del-surs-enchanted.html and http://scorpio-sojourn.blogspot.com/2010/05/trekking-to-surigao-del-surs-tinuy.html.

Not known to many, Surigao del Sur has a myriad of raw, undiscovered and known-by-few attractions (other than those two popular ones I've mentioned) that make it a truly one-of-a-kind adventure destination. Bashed by the wild waves of the Philippine Sea, the coastal side of the province has several hideaways that weekend warriors would be delighted to see, particularly those in the towns of Cagwait, Cortes, Lianga and San Agustin, among others, and even the capital, Tandag.

 

Cagwait. Beach bums should include this hideaway in their itinerary, if only for its pristine creamy white beach. To most people, Cagwait White Beach may still be unheard of—but that won’t stay that way for long. This old town, which I’ve visited many years ago, boasts of a horseshoe-shaped beach which is fringed with palm trees and turquoise waters. In that serene hideaway, you can swim to your heart’s content, sunbathe till you get the tan you want and sleep under the stars.

When I first got there years ago, the beach—it’s now being billed as the “Boracay of Caraga Region”—was practically raw, abandoned, and undeveloped. When we went there recently, it’s already abuzz with so much activity—lots of people, cars, restos, stores here, there and everywhere!

About half a dozen beach resorts have also sprouted along the fringes of the beach, bearing such esoteric names as Monica del Sol, Lolinghayaw, Lizville, Plaza, Spacebar (where Jiu and I spent the night) and Cagwait (which is owned and managed by the local government unit).  

The best way to start your day in Cagwait is to wake up early to watch the sun as it rises over the vastness of the Philippine Sea. Perhaps what makes the sunrise in that part of Mindanao so unique is the shadow of some part of the cove that provides a picture-perfect foreground. So rise and shine we did the following morning if only to catch a glimpse of the fleeting phenomenon. And we weren’t disappointed. I’ll let the pics I took that day speak for themselves!

On the way to poblacion Cortes

Cortes. If there’s one hot spot in this town that’s worth visiting, it’s none other than Laswitan Lagoon, a unique 20-foot rock formation along the shores of the town. This geological feature creates three natural basins so that when the surf becomes high, the huge waves would flow and spill into the main basin on the other side, creating a waterfall effect. In recent months, a huge number of tourists have been flocking to Laswitan Lagoon to witness its spectacular attraction. I wanted to be among them, too.

From Tandag, we drove our way to Cortes, passing by one of the town's precious gems--the hidden white beach in Matho. We didn't waste our limited time so decided not to explore that beach. After taking some pics at Matho's marker, we went straight to Laswitan. 


While asking for directions to the lagoon, one of the locals we talked to informed us that the road leading to our destination was undergoing repair and impassable to most vehicles. Small cars like mine would have difficulty treading through the rough terrain, he said. For fear that we could get stuck along the way, I decided to call off the trek.

Matho Beach, one of  Cortes's precious gems

Lubcon Falls: one of Surigao del Sur's best-kept secrets

Instead, I told Jiu to head for Lubcon Falls, which I came to know about through Youtube®. Located some 10 km away from the town proper, the charming little cascade is one of the town’s best-kept secrets. Known mostly to locals, it boasts of a six-foot deep plunge pool at its deepest. I bet someday this would be added to the growing list of must-sees in the province.

From the highway, the falls is just 300 meters away, or a five to ten-minute walk depending on your pace. At the entrance, we paid a token of a fee (Php15 per person) to gain access.  Raw and largely undeveloped, the falls, which is open to the public, was almost deserted when Jiu and I arrived, except for a few locals who were having a picnic there.  


Perhaps realizing the tourism potential of Lubcon Falls, the local government unit will soon be improving the access road to the secluded attraction, according to one local we spoke to. Expect throngs to gravitate there once this is completed.

(to be continued...)

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