It
seemed like ages since I’ve last staged a sojourn into
the landlocked province of Bukidnon—it’s just a couple of years, actually—so invasions
of the exhilarating kind seemed in order. As the summer months set in, I felt it’s
time once again to pack my stuff, pamper myself with the refreshingly cool
climate that swathes the province all year round and prance around the tourist
attractions Bukidnon is known for.
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A pineapple plantation in Malaybalay
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If
I want to, I can head for Baguio or Tagaytay to get the best that the summer
season offers. But why go too far when I can savor all that in one place here
in Mindanao that’s not only adjacent but also accessible and affordable? In the
many instances I’ve been there, Bukidnon has never failed to buck me up with
the myriad of scenes, scents and sceneries that are always there for the taking
by weekend warriors like me.
Said
to be the third largest province in the country (land area: 10,498.59 sq. km),
Bukidnon comprises more than half (59%) of Northern Mindanao. The
province, which has an average elevation of
about 3,000 ft (915 m) above sea level, is blessed with a
plethora of natural wonders such as mountains, lakes, waterfalls, rivers, among
others, that lend credence to its being one of the must-visit places in this
part of the country.
While
Bukidnon boasts of awesome mountains like Mt. Dulang-Dulang and Mt. Kitanglad (reputedly
the country’s third and fourth highest, respectively), a greater part of it is a
gently rolling grassland plateau cut by deep and wide canyons, with vast
portions planted with rice and corn, making it one of Mindanao’s major agricultural
producers. It’s also home to vast pineapple, banana and sugarcane plantations.
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Vast portions of Bukidnon's fertile lands are planted with rice
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Unlike my last sojourn to the
province, I consider my most recent journeys to Bukidnon more thrill-packed,
fun-filled and adventure- laden given the many firsts I experienced while
exploring the picturesque province in Northern Mindanao. Two of my latest exploits also happened to be
my first-ever one-man escapades into some of its twenty fascinating towns,
including its two cities.
The
solo sojourns to Bukidnon had me driving on my own for the first time into the
cities of Valencia and Malaybalay as well as the southern towns of Quezon and
Maramag, coming all the way from Davao. These were adrenaline-pumping journeys
that thrilled me no end as I meandered through the long and winding highways of
the province, which, for the most part, are well paved.
Here
are more bits and pieces about the interesting destinations in Bukidnon which formed
part of my sojourns’ ends:
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Bukidnon Provincial Capitol
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Malaybalay. Billed as the “City
in a Forest”, the provincial capital, which rises at an average elevation of 622
m (2,041 ft) above sea level, often serves as my home away from home whenever
I’m in Bukidnon. Exploring it for the
first time in 2007, Malaybalay struck me as Baguio some ten to fifteen years
ago when it was still relatively congestion-free and its pine-scented mountain air was pure
and unpolluted.
One of the first
things I did during my recent visit to Malaybalay was to head for the Capitol
Grounds one morning. Fronting a wide football field and surrounded with lush
greenery, the Provincial Capitol was erected in 1933, many years after Bukidnon
became a province on September 1, 1914. The colonial-inspired building stands
as one of the more outstanding kapitolyos
built during the Commonwealth era.
The two-storey
structure has an unpretentious architecture reminiscent of the traditional bahay na bato, that is, concrete at the
lower floor, wooden at the upper. At the
balcony, the old provincial seal is prominently displayed. Today, the capitol
stands as a mute witness to the province’s history, radiating its power and
influence well all over the highlands and lowlands of Bukidnon.
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Pine Hills Hotel Complex
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Driving my way back
to Pine Hills Hotel where I was billeted, I pulled over at Rizal Park. Not to be
missed when you’re in that part of town are the sculptures depicting
Malaybalay’s founding—Erreccion de Pueblo (Creation of Town). The landmark at the park commemorates the
signing of the pact between the Spanish officials and the local tribal leaders
that signaled the end of hostilities between them in 1877.
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Erreccion de Pueblo (Creation of Town) Monument
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A cowboy and his horse at Kaamulan Nature Park
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In the afternoon, I
proceeded to Kaamulan Nature Park, one of Malaybalay’s distinctive attractions.
A project of the local government, the park was established to pay homage to
the seven indigenous hill tribes of the province—Bukidnon, Higaonon, Manobo,
Matigsalug, Talaandig, Tigwahanon and Umayamnon. Replicas of the different houses of the
tribes are positioned all over the complex.
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Replica of a tribal house
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Tall conifers at Kaamulan Nature Park
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For me, the park
provides a sought-after respite from the hubbub of urban life where you can seek
refuge, meditate, go on a picnic and what have you amidst the backdrop of
verdant forest trees. I had a grand time basking in the beauty of the Kaamulan’s green surroundings. Time seemed to stand still as I sat there under the
shades. Geez, it feels great to be shielded from social realities even for just
a few hours!
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Young tribal cowboy romping around the park
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I also made it to one
of Malaybalay’s popular destinations—D’ Stable Eco Resort. When craving for some eats, this resort, more
popularly known as Quadra, is one of the best places to satiate your hunger.
Quadra has a number of horses, stables, huts and cottages—all set up to conjure
a ranch-like ambience set amidst a verdant landscape with lofty mountains, lush
forestlands and all.
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D' Stable Eco Park a.k.a. Quadra
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The resort is a
perfect place for dining and drinking as it offers reasonably-priced food and
beverages. Quadra also has closed
cottages that can accommodate guests who wish to stay for the night. For those
who want a little adventure, it also offers horseback riding for that complete
cowboy experience in Bukidnon.
Malaybalay also
offers some of the best gastronomic experiences to its visitors. A number of restos offering grilled seafood
and meat are scattered all over town, including Rey’s Grill, Mama Lo’s,
Fiona’s, Amadeo’s, The Garden, Skyway
and Sir Edwards. For the best seafood
fare, however, I have a strong bias for Anton’s, which for me is the best place
for savoring my comfort food—fresh bounty from the sea!
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A section of Sayre National Highway traversing Valencia City
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Valencia City. While Malaybalay is considered as the
provincial seat of power, it is Valencia, however, that serves as Bukidnon’s
hub of trade and commerce. Since attaining its cityhood in 2000, Valencia has
evolved into a progressive urban center in that part of Mindanao. Today,
several business establishments like hotels, malls, shops, among others, dot
the city’s bustling landscape. Construction is booming, too.
About an hour’s drive
away from the provincial capital, Valencia is located at the heart of the
province, near the mighty Pulangi River, which traverses many of its
rice-producing villages. Considered as Bukidnon’s longest, the river is the
source of the 255-megawatt capacity Pulangi IV Hydroelectric Power Plant
(located in the nearby town of Maramag), which supplies about 25% of Mindanao’s
power requirements.
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A portion of Pulangi River as seen from Valencia City
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From what I’ve
gathered, Valencia has been dubbed as the “City of Golden Harvest” in light of
the vast tracts of prime agricultural land being planted with the so-called
golden Valencia rice. The city is also a major producer of agricultural crops,
including corn, pineapples, bananas, sugarcane and the like. Every September,
the city celebrates the bounty of its rice and corn products through the Golden
Harvest Festival.
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Scenic view of Mt. Musuan and Pulangi River as seen from Valencia City
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Blessed
with mountain ranges, waterfalls, lakes, rivers, and caves, Valencia City is a
certified must-see for those who love to bask in the beauty of nature. What
makes the city such an interesting destination is the presence of Lake Apo, a
serene lake with a breathtaking backdrop of mountain ranges and lush virgin
forests.
Said
to be a crater lake with clear waters, Apo is hailed as “the cleanest inland
body of water in Northern Mindanao.”
Named after the Pinoy word for elder or grandfather, the serene lake
(elevation: 640 m (2,100 ft), which is found in the village of Guinoyuran, some
11 km away from Valencia City, has long been one of my dream destinations in
Bukidnon.
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Lake Apo
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I’ve been raring to visit the said lake
during my recent visits to Bukidnon but attempts to go there have gone pfft.
Even so, I’m not giving up though. After all, it ain’t over till it’s over. And
I’m confident I’ll get to see it this year.
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Power lines amidst sugarcane fields dominate Maramag's landscape
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Maramag. One of Bukidnon’s most progressive towns,
Maramag owes much of its economic prosperity to sugarcane production and
hydroelectric power. Crystal Sugar Company, Inc., one of the four sugar milling
companies operating in Mindanao, is located there. Maramag is also home to one
of the island’s vital sources of power—Pulangi IV Hydroelectric Power Plant.
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Panoramic view of Mt. Musuan and a section of Pulangi River as seen from Valencia City
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For
eco-adventurers, there’s one breathtaking—literally and
figuratively!—attraction in Maramag worth exploring: Musuan Peak, a small but active volcano that
last erupted in the 1800s. A favorite destination of hikers, sprinters, and
lovers of the great outdoors, the volcano, also known as Mt. Musuan and Mt.
Calayo (literally “Fire Mountain), is located only a few hundred meters away
from the Sayre National Highway.
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A glimpse of Mt. Musuan
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Mt.
Musuan offers a 360-degree panoramic view of the sugarcane and rice fields at
the lowlands, the mighty Pulangi River and the mountain ranges from afar.
Rising some 646 m (2,119 ft) above sea level, the peak always fascinates me
whenever I catch a glimpse of it. Later, when I found out that there’s a hiking
trail leading to the top of the mountain, I vowed to return and scale its peak.
Climbing the mountain formed part of
my itinerary during my recent visit to Bukidnon. Leaving Malaybalay early in
the morning, I arrived at the entrance gate to the peak where the Mt. Musuan
Zoological and Botanical Garden is located. The said complex, which is part of
the nearby Central Mindanao University (CMU), serves as the research facility
for CMU’s students and researchers.
Incidentally,
CMU, one of the two state universities found in Bukidnon (the other is the
Bukidnon State University in Malaybalay), ranks among the country’s top
performing schools in the fields of veterinary medicine, engineering, forestry
education, agriculture education, nutrition and dietetics and teacher education. Established in 1910, CMU has a student
population is over 7,000. About 80% of them are children of farmers.
After
paying my entrance fee (Php10) to the guard on duty, I started my first ascent
to Mt. Musuan. Fortunately, there’s a
well- established, tree-shaded trail that leads all the way to the peak.
I took slow but sure strides for fear that my arthritis would get the better of
me if I hiked too fast.
As
I got higher, the scenery down below started to turn into a visual feast—the
picture-perfect vista of Bukidnon’s verdant rice fields, the mighty Pulangi
River, the distant mountain ranges and the thriving communities of Valencia City.
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One of the cool pools at RR Family Spring Resort
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Endowed
with an abundant supply of spring water, Maramag, which is billed as the “Cold
Spring Capital of Bukidnon” is home to several nice swimming resorts. Not a few
of these resorts are well-developed with overnight accommodations, restaurants
and other creature comforts. Popular cold spring resorts include RR Family
Spring Resort, Waig Crystal Spring Resort, Edlimar Farm and Spring Resort, and
MGM Mountain Resort.
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Waig Crystal Spring Resort
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So far, I’ve managed to visit two of these
during one of my weekend wanderings in the province: Waig Crystal Spring Resort
and RR Family Spring Resort. On a hot and humid day, these two resorts offer
the perfect rendezvous for a refreshing plunge into their cool pools—the sweet
escape from the sweltering heat!
Located roughly ten minutes away from right
smack at the poblacion, Waig Crystal Spring Resort has ample facilities,
including five swimming pools, picnic huts, a souvenir shop, a restaurant,
function halls, tennis and basketball courts, billiard halls as well as aircon
and non-aircon cabanas, dormitories and campsites for those who want to spend
the night there.
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Awe-inspiring vista of Bukidnon at Overview Nature and Culture Park
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Other
than sugar, the town is also known for the Overview Nature and Culture Park
(ONCP), a favorite stopover of motorists on their way to or from Cagayan de
Oro, Misamis Oriental, Bukidnon, Davao, etc. Situated at an elevated portion
along the highway, ONCP offers an
awe-inspiring vista of Quezon’s rugged landscape as well as its neighboring
towns and the surrounding mountain ranges.
More
than just a pit stop for nature lovers, ONCP is also a promenade for artists and
culture vultures. The park features several masterpieces of Davao-based artist
Kublai Millan—sculptures of indigenous peoples arranged into tableaus and
assembled in different locations. Seeing his works all over the park all the
more reinforced my admiration for Kublai—he’s truly one of the art geniuses of
this generation!
Just
like those I’ve seen at Kaamulan Nature Park, the works of art at ONCP pay
tribute to the seven hill tribes who were the original inhabitants of Bukidnon.
Altogether, the sculptures celebrate the tribes’ artistry by showcasing their
unique musical instruments (agong, kubling and bangkakaw) and their dance (bubudsil).
If you’re into ethnic art and music, you’ll have a grand time feasting on
Kublai’s works that are on display there.
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One of Kublai Millan's sculptures depicting the ethnic dance called bubudsil
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Across
ONCP is another landmark worth visiting: Overview Helipad. Like the park, it’s
also adorned with sculptures of indigenous people from the seven hill tribes of
Bukidnon, all done by Kublai. What struck me most was the concrete hat that’s
actually an overhead cover of the helipad's view deck. The hat provides shelter
and shade against the sweltering heat for those who want to bask in Bukidnon’s
beauty.
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The pathway to the giant cowboy hat at the ONCP helipad
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Nature lovers, hikers, trekkers and adventure
junkies will surely find the park and the helipad the ideal setting for their varied
activities. But it also offers the perfect setting for painters, sculptors,
photographers, composers, writers and poets who may wish to create their magnum
opuses in a rarefied and rugged landscape like Bukidnon’s.
Both
are owned and maintained by the Department of Public Works and Highways (DPWH).
Like
many other towns in the province, Quezon is endowed with huge tracts of fertile
plains, virgin forests, rolling hills, lofty mountain ranges and mysterious
caves. One of the most interesting natural attractions worth exploring is Blue
Water Cave, a largely unexplored cavern with a blue lagoon inside one of its
chambers. Perhaps someday I’ll get to reach it—I hope soon enough before my
chronic arthritis could finally stop me from pursuing my weekend wanderings!
:-D
Out
there in the
heartland of Mindanao, where its remaining (read: endangered) forest
covers are found, lies this city that never fails to fascinate me each
time I
have the chance to visit it—Malaybalay. Aptly called the “City in a
Forest”, its
attractions have much to do with the au naturel charms of its clean and
green
surroundings. 
Bukidnon's capital, however, can’t boast about being on a bay, lake, river, or having a view of the sea
because it’s landlocked just like the rest of the province. So, what’s the one
thing that sets it apart from any other city of its class? What else but those
hectares upon hectares of old-growth, sturdy and lovely trees—dipterocarps,
conifers and what have you—set within a
backdrop of lofty, mist-covered mountains and hills.
Dubbed as the
“Southern Summer Capital of the Philippines”, Malaybalay was founded as a
pueblo by the Spanish colonizers in
1877. When the Americans came, the sleepy town became Bukidnon’s capital in
1907 following the latter’s establishment as a province. In 1998, Malaybalay attained its status as a
chartered city. 
When I first saw Malaybalay several years
ago, the city came across as Baguio almost two decades earlier, that is—small,
clean and green, congestion-free. Nestled at an elevation of 622 m (2,041 ft)
above sea level, Malaybalay’s climate is, of course, cool. Visitors will surely love the pine-scented,
crisp mountain air that swathes the city all year round. 
The motorela or rela is the usual mode of transport within the city. This version
of the ubiquitous tricycle that’s common in Northern Mindanao is quite smaller
than the usual ones I saw in other Philippine cities. I took the rela on a few occasions as I opted to
leave my car at the hotel. Doing so, I guess, is the best way to acclimatize
myself with the way of living in the places I visit.
With the presence of
Bukidnon State University (BSU), Malaybalay can be considered as a university
town, not unlike Dumaguete (with Silliman and four other universities). Created
in 1924 as a two-year secondary school during the Commonwealth era, BSU became
a state university in 2007, with an estimated student population of over
11,000.
Gaisano is the only
mall I saw there, but no movie houses yet. McDonald’s, Chow King and Jollibee
also have their popular presence. There are, however, several cheap dining
places spread all over town, mostly catering to students. Two dining places
that count among my favorites are Anton’s Grill and D’ Stable Eco-Park. 
Anton’s Grill offers probably the best
seafood fare in town. Its owners also happen to be the people behind the
popular nationwide roast chicken food chain known as Manok ni Sr. Pedro. When I had dinner there, I made sure I got to
taste the original, mouth-watering Sr.
Pedro chicken. Two thumbs up for that!
Meanwhile, D’ Stable
Eco Resort, popularly known as Quadra, is one of the best places to satiate
your hunger. Quadra has a number of horses, stables, huts and cottages—all set
up to conjure a ranch-like ambience set amidst a verdant landscape with lofty
mountains, lush forestlands and all!
There are several
places to stay, mostly inns, pension houses and apartelles, all over
Malaybalay—Haus Malibu, Plaza View, Quadra, Small World, 1st Avenue, Villa
Alemania, to name some. Sadly, even the most decent one, Pine Hills Hotel, is
showing signs of deterioration. When in Bukidnon, I prefer to stay in nearby
Valencia City. 
Erreccion de Pueblo (Creation of Town), on the other
hand, depicts the 1877 agreement between the Spanish colonizers and the local
leaders. Located within the town plaza, the monument draws a good number of
city folks who’ve found it the convenient place for meeting, talking, eating,
playing and what have you. 
Just a stone’s throw away from the town plaza
is the Cathedral of St. Isidore the Farmer, which I also visited to say a little prayer. Built in 1969, the church has gone
several renovations through the years. The image of the patron saint encased in
stained glass adorns the church’s front wall. An icon is also found inside the
church. 
Perhaps the crowning
glory of any sojourn to Malaybalay is a visit to the Monastery of the
Transfiguration. Neatly tucked in the village of San Jose in Malaybalay, the
monastic complex stands on a vast, slightly sloping terrain surrounded by lush
mountains and hills. I consider it a “mortal sin” for any tourist to miss this
must-see wonder. 
Roughly twenty
minutes away from the downtown area by private car, the monastic complex has
several buildings housing the monks, a small chapel, dormitories and retreat
houses for pilgrims, and several hectares of prime lands owned by the
Benedictine Monks. Though open to the
public, visitors can only enter its premises if they are dressed in accordance
with the monks’ dress code. 
For me, the
monastery’s most distinctive as well as renowned feature is the pyramid-shaped
church designed by the late Leandro Locsin, National Artist for
Architecture. Said to be Locsin’s last
great work before he passed away in the early 1990s, the awe-inspiring church,
which is made of lime blocks, was inaugurated some thirty years ago. 
Inside the church, I saw a replica of the
statue of Our Lady of Montserrat, which reportedly came all the way from the
Abbey of Montserrat in Catalonia, Spain. The said replica, which is one of the
Black Madonnas of Europe, was given by the Abbey of Montserrat as a gift to
commemorate the centennial of the Benedictine monks presence in the
Philippines. 
So, is it nice to stay
there for good? If you want to live in a forest—yet in the city—it’s
definitely the place to be. But how long will Malaybalay stay that way, that
is, as the “City in a Forest”? Well, that, I believe, would depend to a great
extent on the actions of its people to preserve its relatively pristine state
and keep it from going the way the “City of Pines” has gone—to the dogs, that
is. :-D
