Saturday, October 7, 2017

Nostalgic about Negros Occidental (Part 3)


I have left my heart in not a few places in the country. When I feel strongly about a certain place, I can’t help but get so attached to it such that I end up feeling awfully sad whenever it’s time for me to leave. Almost always, saying goodbye to a destination I’ve fallen in love with becomes a bittersweet affair.


Bacolod City Government Center



Mind you, I’d get so wistful whenever I think of any of them. Having travelled extensively around the Philippines all these years, I’ve been struggling to overcome my feelings of nostalgia for all the places I’ve visited. One of those I’ve grown so fond of is Negros Occidental, the “Sugar Bowl of the Philippines.”

Bacolod-Silay International Airport




Perhaps this has something to do with culture, the umbilical cord that connects Neg Occ, as I like to call it for short, with its closest neighbor, the island of Panay, where both my parents hail from. These two islands share so many things in common—language, food, customs, religion, temperament, among others. 


Planta Central Hotel...home away from home














That they’re just a strait away from each other serves to strengthen the connection. So, I have little doubt that culture and geography have contrived to nurture my nostalgic feelings for the “sweetest” place in the country. Going back there, if time permits, is always at the back of my mind. It’s been a while, three years, if I’m not mistaken, since I last visited Neg Occ so a revisit is in order.

Remnant of a train wagon used to haul sugarcane


Stepping back into the amazing province in the Western Visayas Region this year, however, never crossed my mind—until I got an invite to attend a work-related event in Bacolod City. For weeks, I kept praying that my bosses would allow me to push through with trip. Imagine my ineffable joy when they gave me and my two coworkers the green light!

Initially, I only intended to hang around dear, old Bacolod and revisit the nearby cities of Silay and Talisay, if only to give my two companions a quick tour of some of the more popular destinations there since it’s their first time to make it to Neg Occ. 

To my sheer delight, however, I got to visit not just one, two or three but six cities in the province—all in a span of six days! Thanks to my Bacolod-based friends, Jim and Minnie (my hosts during my extended stay there), I got to see for the first time some popular attractions in the cities of Cadiz, San Carlos and Victorias!

Let me now take you down memory lane and share some of the most wonderful times I’ve had while basking in the tourist hot spots that these cities offer to weekend warriors.

Bacolod City Government Center at dusk



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Bacolod. First stop, of course, is the City of Smiles. I first made it there about a decade ago so this recent sojourn to Bacolod is a milestone year of sorts for me. Whenever I’m in town, I make it a point to go on a food trip, dropping by a new resto, café and eatery or return to a popular one which offers some of the best eats in town if only to give my tummy a treat of the best-tasting chow.

Chicken inasal at Aida's Manokan Country

















So, it was take two for me as far as three food hubs are concerned: Aida’s in Manokan Country, L’ Kaisei Japanese Restaurant and Felicia’s Cakes and Pastries. As always, they didn’t disappoint me. The famous chicken inasal of Aida’s remains delectable to the bone. The ebi tempura and sukiyaki at L’ Kaisei not only pleased my palate but also pampered my psyche. Of course, the sinfully delish cakes of Felicia’s are still as toothsome as the day I first tasted them!

That week in Bacolod also had me sampling the best of Sandok’s comfort food—pocherochorizo kagkag and adobong pusit. Next time I’m back, I’ll make sure to sample their KBL-kadyos (pigeon peas), baboy (pork) and langka (green jackfruit)—the Negrenses as well as the Ilonggos’ mouth-watering pork-and-veggie stew!

KBL..a must-try!





I also got to taste some of Bob’s popular fare—pancit luglug and fruit punch. My friends said the resto is an institution in Bacolod and visitors shouldn’t leave without having a meal there. My hosts also took me to this new block in the city, Villa Angela Arcade, where I got to savor some of my favorite Asian treats—pad thai and laksa—at a street food-style joint called East Bite.

Balay Negrense Museum





Silay. Nostalgia caught up on me once again as I, along with two of my coworkers, Heidy and Maliz, stepped into the Museum City of Silay, roughly 28 km away from Bacolod. A visit to this old, quaint place in Neg Occ will surely take first-timers and frequenters alike on an unusual trip to a bygone era that says a lot of the Negrenses’ rich and awe-inspiring history, culture and arts. 


Here’s a charming town—once touted as the Paris of the Orient—where something like twenty-nine (29) stately homes, if my memory serves me right, owned by wealthy hacienderos or sugar barons dating back to the Spanish-American period have been well-preserved, standing as silent witnesses to the passage of time.







I've been to Silay on several occasions in the past so it was but natural for me to play the role of a tour guide to my companions. Arriving in the city via a forty-five minute taxi ride, we headed for the most popular ancestral house in town—Balay Negrense a.k.a. Don Victor Fernandez Gaston Ancestral House—the quintessential landmark that best captures that bygone era of pomp and pageantry in Negros.

It felt nostalgic as I stepped anew into the once stately home of the Gastons for a revisit. A peek into this house, which has been converted into a museum under the aegis of the National Commission for Culture and Arts (NCCA), would give visitors that rare chance to be vicariously transported into a glorious time of grace and grandiosity.  

The iconic structure of The Ruins




Talisay. From Silay, we headed for the neighboring city of Talisay, about 16 km away from Bacolod, to catch a glimpse of one of its popular tourist magnets. Hidden in the vastness of the city’s sugarcane fields are the remains of what used to be a mansion owned by one of Negros Occidental’s sugar barons that has turned in recent years into one of the province’s amazing attractions—aptly called The Ruins.

Built by Don Mariano Ledesma Lacson in memory of his Portuguese wife, the century-old house—or what’s left of it—is considered as the Philippines’ answer to India’s Taj Majal. Revisited after some time, the magnificence of The Ruins seems to have grown well with time. There were a few structures that had been added to the main attraction—an al fresco café and a rocky monument that looked like a modern-day version of the prehistoric Stonehenge!

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Panoramic view of The Ruins (interior)














Stonehenge-like structures at The Ruins




Six years ago, I stood amidst the Lacson mansion’s ruins in the company of good friends from Manila, Bacolod and Davao, brimming with joy and excitement as we roamed around the now-famous tourist magnet. Recently, I came back, accompanying my coworkers who wanted to see for themselves the old house’s ruins. 


So much has changed since I’ve first caught a glimpse of that picture-perfect scenery. I’m older, wiser, and little weary from life’s uncertainties. Still, I came back because I yearned to relive the joy and excitement I felt the first time I was there. And I wanted to share the same awesome feelings with my colleagues. 😍😍😍

(to be continued…)

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