Bucked up by Butuan City (Part 3)

Known as one of the oldest kingdoms in pre-Hispanic Philippines, Butuan never fails to intrigue weekend warriors who crave for historical discoveries that are embedded in the cultural heritage of this so-called “Prehistoric City.” Given its historical significance and cultural heritage, I find Butuan an interesting destination worth exploring.

That’s why when the chance to see the city anew came my way, I readily grabbed it. Two years since I last revisited it, I missed bumming around Butuan. Besides, my environment has turned toxic in recent weeks. I badly needed to escape to a destination that can buck me up. I craved for a breather somewhere far where I can detoxify and regain a part of me I’ve lost in the rat race. And the city came out on top of my choices.   

Taking advantage of the long holiday break this month, I hastily came up with my itinerary, made arrangements for my accommodations, and packed my stuff for a 4D/3N escapade. Destination? Agusan del Norte, with Butuan as my home away from home.

Excavation site of the balangays in Libertad, Butuan

Perhaps the prehistoric city is best remembered in history as the land of the balangays (or balanghais), the oldest known watercrafts used by ancient Filipinos. Several of these boats were discovered in Butuan in 1976 and even recently in other parts of the Agusan provinces, with some of them finding their way into both local and national museums. 

Way back in 2014, I saw for the first time one of those boats in a local museum in Libertad, Butuan. Geez, the experience gave me goosebumps! For more about this, visit my posts at http://scorpio-sojourn.blogspot.com/2014/05/bucked-up-by-butuan-city-part-1.html   and http://scorpio-sojourn.blogspot.com/2014/05/bucked-up-by-butuan-city-part-2.html. 

Branch of the National Museum in Butuan

Of the nine boats unearthed in Butuan, only three (if I’m not mistaken) have been carbon-dated and are now on display, two in Butuan and one at the National Museum in Manila. These have been declared as National Cultural Treasures thru a presidential proclamation during the administration of the late President Corazon Aquino. The other six vessels, on the other hand, have been kept in their waterlogged state, which experts consider as the best way of preserving them.

Main lobby of the museum

Of the nine boats unearthed in Butuan, only three (if I’m not mistaken) have been carbon-dated and are now on display, two in Butuan and one at the National Museum in Manila. These have been declared as National Cultural Treasures thru a presidential proclamation during the administration of the late President Corazon Aquino. The other six vessels, on the other hand, have been kept in their waterlogged state, which experts consider as the best way of preserving them.

Remnants of a balangay boat on display at the Butuan National Museum

When I last came to the city, I failed to see the other boat that’s being at the Butuan National Museum. For this recent sojourn, I made it a point to drop by the museum for a look-see. Located a block away from the city hall, the museum houses a number of precious artifacts, the most important of which is the balangay. 

A few of the ancient relics on exhibit at the museum

Remnants of a balangay boat

Other than the boat, what’s in store for visitors who pay a visit to the museum? A lot! On display are several artifacts associated with the indigenous tribes in the Caraga Region—farming tools and implements, baskets, musical instruments, textiles, and personal adornments.

Collections also include excavated materials such as adze and tablet; mortar and pestle; wooden paddles; ceramics wares, etc. Also being showcased in the museum are trinkets and ornaments made of gold, silver, copper and bronze.

Whew, I had a field day scouring the museum (which is undergoing renovation) and gazing at the numerous historical and cultural finds! 

Embossed mural depicting life in pre-historic Butuan

Scale model of a balangay boat

Many years ago, I came across an issue confronting Butuan that erupted into a national controversy. For this trip, I wanted to dig some more into that, hence, I opted to visit the village of Masao, roughly thirty minutes away from the Agusan del Norte Provincial Capitol, which is a stone’s throw away from the inn where I was staying.

Fishing is the dominant means of livelihood in Masao

The road to Masao

So, what’s with Masao and what is its connection to the rub? Well, it’s about the exact location of the first Roman Catholic celebration of the Holy Eucharist on Easter Sunday, which, from what I’ve learned in my history classes, was held in Limasawa in Southern Leyte. But try asking any Butuanon about this and chances are, his answer would be different.

Masao Bridge

Why? Because to many Butuanons, it wasn’t held in Limasawa at all but right smack in their city! Way back in the mid-1990s, Butuan hugged the national limelight when one of her legislators filed a bill in Congress refuting Limasawa as the venue of the holy event. How on earth could that be? How could two places claim to be the venue of an event that happened nearly 500 years ago? 

Masao Beach

Apparently, the city’s claim was forwarded to the National Historical Institute, which formed an investigative panel that eventually issued a resolution favoring Limasawa as the venue, a decision subsequently adopted by the historical commission. Intrigued, I wanted to discover for myself the backstory of Butuan’s assertion over the venue of the first mass in the country. 

Earlier editions of history books tell us that Fr. Pedro de Valderamma, chaplain of Magellan’s fleet, celebrated the historic mass in Philippines (which Magellan named the Archipelago of St. Lazarus) on March 31, 1521 on an island recorded by the Portugeuse explorer’s official chronicler, Antonio Pigafetta, to be Mazaua whose location is the bone of contention among historical experts to this very day.

Magellan's Anchorage Memorial in Masao, Butuan 

Some historians are questioning NHI’s ruling of Limasawa as the venue of the said event. Certain quarters aren’t buying the NHI’s decision since Limasawa has no harbor where Magellan’s ships could have sought refuge from a storm at that time. Then there’s the Butuan claim which argues that Mazaua is actually what is now modern-day Masao in Butuan.

Mural depicting Magellan's landing in Mazaua

Being a Mindanaoan, I’m raring to support the Butuanons’ claim but then again I can’t because it could be flawed! As we know it, the fishing village of Masao nor Butuan isn’t an island. 

Now, if geological experts can show proof beyond reasonable doubt that the lost island of Mazaua had actually “geomorphed”—is that possible in the first place?—into Masao then, by all means, I’d join any protest against NHI for propagating a historical hoax. 

But then again, there’s a possibility that someone misinterpreted the transcripts of Pigafetta, thus, perpetuating a possible deception of great proportions.

So adamant are the Butuanons about their claim that they’ve put up some shrines in honor of Magellan. One of these was the memorial depicting Magellan’s Anchorage in Masao Beach, which I was able to visit. Several resorts now dot the black-sand strip where the shrine is located. 

Then there’s this other shrine on the hill where Magellan and his crew allegedly dropped anchor in Mazaua to seek refuge from a storm. While they were there, the conquistadors celebrated the first Easter mass in the country and erected a cross in another adjacent location. Known as the Bood Promontory Eco-Park, the shrine is located in a wooded area in the village of Pinamanculan and has become a favorite tourist destination. I failed to make it there though.

Butuan City Hall

There are claims other than that of Limasawa and Masao as in the case of two other Butuan villages, Pinamanculan (where the Bood Promontory is found) and Bancasi (where the airport is located). According to a group of earth scientists, these two fit the latitude of the lost port of Magellan’s fleet. But so far, the first two contenders, have proven to be the most hotly debated.

A lagoon inside the museum complex

So, where’s the real site of the first recorded mass in the country? Limasawa, Masao, Bancasi or Pinamanculan? Once an easy question to answer during my school days has turned into a tough dilemma for today’s history student! Until solid evidence surfaces to prove any of these claims, nobody knows for sure. As truth concerning Magellan’s landing yet to be firmly established, everyone’s guess is as good as mine and yours.

Lastly, here’s my two cents worth on this. If that historical event really took place in some village in present-day Butuan, then by all means, we need to re-write our history books, not for the sake of Butuan or the Butuanons but for the millions of Filipinos who deserve nothing but a true account of their country’s history. 

Accordingly, the national government should exert more efforts to rectify the inconsistencies surrounding this historical event, which probably resulted from the wrong translation of Pigafetta’s chronicles. And those responsible for perpetuating the hoaxes that have remained in the annals of Philippine history to this day should be held accountable.

Now, who says understanding history is child’s play? :-D