Soothing the soul becomes a force of habit to me whenever
I feel the incubus of life dragging me down. I go about this ritual by going to
a place where I can regain a part of me I’ve lost in the rat race. If the need
for inner peace, renewal, and enlightenment is so intense, I often hit the road
to search for uplifting experiences in a local soul-soothing destination
in Mindanao—South Cotabato.
Comely, countrified and cool than other parts of the
country, South Cotabato is fast becoming a hideaway of choice among local and
even foreign tourists. Sought by adventure junkies for its mist-covered
mountains, magical waterfalls, mystical lakes and the most scenic and probably
the deepest ziplines in Southeast Asia, the province has many attractions ideal
for retreats, rejuvenations and reunions.
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| Hikong Alo a.k.a Falls No. 1 |
These past years, I’ve grown so fond of South Cotabato.
If time permits me and my resources warrant it, I run away to this province in
SOCCSKSARGEN. Whenever I’m there, I hardly miss home; it’s as if I never left
home at all. Here’s a haven in the heart of the island where forests, fogs,
fireflies and freezing nights conjure an ambience that restores tired bodies,
refreshes troubled minds and revives sagging spirits.
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| Gaisano Grand in Koronadal |
This I have to say: the province occupies a special place
in my heart. It was there where my
mettle as a young researcher was put to test many years ago. Back then, what
was then known as South Cotabato was composed of seventeen towns. It was also part of Southern Mindanao (Region XI), along with
the three original Davao Provinces, Davao City, Surigao del Sur and General
Santos City.
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| Surallah Rotunda |
For about a week, my teammates and I went all over the
place to conduct an inventory of medical equipment and paraphernalia which were
donated to various barangay health stations all over the province. Part of a
foreign-assisted project, the donations have helped improve the health care
services of the recipient villages not only in South Cotabato but the rest of
Southern Mindanao.
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| Lake Sebu |
Hopping from one barangay to another, I had the time of
life meandering from north to south—scouring remote villages, interviewing
several respondents, eating in dingy eateries, sleeping in crowded hospitals,
and many first-time experiences. In no small measure, the South Cotabato
escapade helped me earn my spurs as a researcher and a field auditor. If only for that, I feel beholden to the province.
If I’m not mistaken, South Cotabato then included the
fast-rising city of General Santos (or GenSan) and the seven southern coastal
towns—Alabel, Glan, Malapatan, Malungon, Maitum, Maasim and Kiamba—that now
form part of present-day Sarangani, following its creation as a separate
province in 1992. Today, GenSan has become one of the Philippines’
highly-urbanized cities.
With the creation of Sarangani Province, South Cotabato now has ten
towns—Banga, Polomolok, Lake Sebu, Norala, Surallah, Sto. Nino, T’boli,
Tantangan, Tampakan and Tupi—and one component city, Koronadal, which is also
the regional center of the SOCCSKSARGEN Region, the conglomeration of South
Cotabato, Cotabato, Sultan Kudarat, Sarangani and the cities of Cotabato and
General Santos.
Arguably, the most soul-soothing experiences I’ve ever
had in South Cotabato in recent years were those countless times I spent
frolicking in four exciting destinations in the province—Koronadal, Polomolok,
Surallah and of course, Lake Sebu. The natural and man-made attractions found
all over the place are veritable magnets for seekers of serenity like this
inveterate gadabout.
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| Alunan Avenue in Koronadal City |
Koronadal City, for instance, has several sights and
sounds that would surely captivate even the most seasoned of travelers. Still
known to most people by its old name, Marbel,
the city features an interesting fusion of urban chaos and country living.
Traffic along the city rotunda (which locals refer to as “Round Ball”) has
become chaotic since my last visit to the city. Oh, dear, the price of
progress!
Strategically located in the heart of Central Mindanao,
Koronadal City lies in the intersection of two major road networks: the Pan
Philippine Highway Friendship Highway and the Koronadal-Banga-Isulan Road which
connect the city to other major destinations in SOCCSKSARGEN Region and the
rest of Mindanao. It serves as the crucial economic crossroad not only for the
province but for the region as well.
Before the Christian migrants came, B’laan and
Maguindanaoan tribes used to populate the area. What is now the city proper was
once called Marbel, whose name was derived from the B’laan words, malb-el, meaning “muddy water”, perhaps
in reference to what is now known as Marbel River. The B'laans also called the
place Koronadal, from the words koron or kolon, meaning “cogon grass” and nadal
or datal, referring to “plain”.
Hiligaynon, the language of the Ilonggos, is widely
spoken in the city. But they also speak Cebuano and Tagalog. Years ago, I used
to frequent Koronadal when it was still the capital town of the province,
either to do some research work or assist in the conduct of workshops for local
government units. Good thing, I understood Hiligaynon that’s why I didn’t have
any difficulty interacting with the locals.
Revisited after quite some time, the city once known as a
“plain of cogon” impressed me with its stunning metamorphosis. New hotels have
risen, including FB Hotel and Convention Center and The Farm@Carpenter Hill. On
a recent visit, I noticed a new shopping complex, Gaisano Grand Mall. The old
KCC Mall, on the other hand, is undergoing a major face-lift, perhaps in a bid
to keep up with the competition.
It was also a delight to see a new City Hall rising
prominently near the highway leading to the town center. The new building is a
fitting testament to the rise of Koronadal up in the ladder of progress and
good governance. I just wish that the provincial government would do something
to upgrade the facilities of the South Cotabato Sports Complex, which used to
be the venue of several national competitions in the past.
Koronadal also prides itself with a new tourist
attraction that would surely give swim fans and sun worshipers the thrill and
fun they crave for especially now that summer is approaching—Paraiso Verde
Resort and Water Park. The world-class resort, which made a big splash when it
opened a few years ago, offers four major attractions: Moby Wave Pool,
Adventura River Rapids, Freestyle Swim Pool, and Wiggles Kiddie Pool.
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| Some attractions inside Paraiso Verde |
Paraiso Verde has open cabanas, airconditioned cabins, a
food court, a 300 person-capacity pavilion, a café, a souvenir shop and a lush
garden. But it’s the wave pool that really impressed me the most. At first, it
looked like an ordinary pool with a gradual slope just like a beach, until the
waves started coming. Geez, it’s one of the most exhilarating aqua adventure
parks I’ve seen in those parts!
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| Mt. Matutum |
Polomolok, on the other hand, captivated me the moment I
first laid eyes on its awesome landscape many years ago while on my way to
Koronadal from General Santos City. Incidentally, the bustling town got its
name from the B’laan word, flomlok,
meaning “hunting ground”. A long time ago, the area where the town center is located
used to be known for the plethora of wildlife, hence, the name.
While in town, visitors get to have a close look at South
Cotabato’s most distinctive attraction: Mt. Matutum. Rising some 2,286 meters
above sea level, the mountain is considered to be one of the twenty-plus active
volcanoes in the country. Known to have last erupted in 1911, it has remained
calm since then. Lying at its foot are some natural hot and cold springs where
tourists can swim to their hearts’ content.
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| DOLE Kalsangi in Polomolok |
Mention Polomolok and, chances are, pineapples would come
easily to anybody’s mind like I do. Home to DOLE Philippines, the world’s
largest producer and marketer of fresh, canned pineapples and other fruits, the
boom town is surrounded with gently rolling plantations spread all over 12,000
hectares of its fertile lands, making it one of South Cotabato’s
important cash cows.
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| DOLE Plantation |
Right smack in the middle of the vast DOLE plantation
lies one of Polomolok’s best kept secrets—Kalsangi.
While covering an event there for the first time years
ago, my coworkers and I had a hard time locating it. Geez, it took us almost an hour just to find the estate which lay
hidden in the vastness of the plantation! Fortunately, we got to Kalsangi
before the impending rain could make matters worse.
Generally off-limits to the public, Kalsangi isn’t shown
on any tourist map so don’t bother looking for it. Reason: the exclusive
village is home to the multinational firms’ ex-pats and top brass. To gain
access to the estate, you have to pass through strict security checks. Good
thing, I have friends who had some connections inside so we were able to make
it there fuss-free on two occasions.
Entering Kalsangi for the first time, I felt like I was
in some typical American village. Scattered all over the sprawling estate are
log cabins reminiscent of those country houses I’ve seen in many Hollywood
movies. Conifers of all shapes and sizes line up its streets, interspersed with
huge trees and other wild flora. Kalsangi had me the moment I saw those tall
Norfolk pine trees!
Wait, there’s more to the village than those pine trees;
it also boasts of a sprawling nine-hole golf course, probably one of the
country’s best greens. Roaming around the estate for the first time, I suddenly
found myself transported to a sanctuary of serenity where peace reigns supreme.
Who needs golf carts when it’s more soothing to the senses to take a leisurely
hike amidst Kalsangi’s green fields?
Golf aficionados can play all day in the golf course
while treating themselves with the sight of majestic Mt. Matutum looming
nearby. After a tourney, they can head for the clubhouse and savor those meals
which are no less spectacular than Kalsangi itself. For more about my sojourn’s
story, go over my post on Polomolok at http://scorpio-sojourn.blogspot.com/2008/05/pursuing-putters-in-plomoloks-golf.html.:D
(to be continued)
If it is southern comfort I’m looking for, I’d readily
set my eyes on South Cotabato. People who’ve been there are one in saying that
it’s truly a place quite unlike any other. Nowhere else in Mindanao can you
find a plethora of diversity that’s evident in many parts of the province. Many
of its towns are interesting tourist destinations and two of them should be
part of your must-see list: Surallah and Lake Sebu.
Surallah is a fast growing town you shouldn’t miss if
you’re bound for South Cotabato. Those heading for Lake Sebu would surely be
passing by the town found at the southern portion of Allah River, one of the
tributaries of the Rio Grande de Mindanao a.k.a Mindanao River, the second
largest river system in the Philippines. Given its location, I surmise the
town’s name literally means “south of Allah River”. 
At the mini-park near the municipal hall, the themes
reflected by the structures at the rotunda are echoed by the array of
sculptures I saw there. The minutes seemed to have frozen as I went around the
works of art and struck several poses with them. To others, the times I’ve
spent there may seem boring and uninteresting but for this wannabe culture
vulture they’re bright and unparalleled!
Local and foreign tourists who go to South Cotabato
usually head for Lake Sebu, probably the most frequented adventure hideaway in
the province, mainly because of its amazing lakes and waterfalls, which I’ve
visited on three separate occasions. Located at an altitude of about 300 meters
(984 ft) above sea level, the upland town never fails to captivate me even if
I’ve already seen it time and again. 
Heralded as the Summer Capital of Mindanao, Lake Sebu is
the homeland of the T'boli, one of Philippines’ most interesting indigenous
tribes noted for their colorful costumes. It’s also best known for being the
breeding ground of tilapia, a
freshwater fish that’s a sought-after delicacy in those parts. Name it and,
chances are, the locals would cook up something delightful with the
catch—stewed, grilled, fried, sautéed, baked, steamed!
Three lakes dot Lake Sebu’s rugged landscape: Lahit (the
smallest), Seloton (the deepest) and Sebu (the largest), all of which I’ve seen
on separate occasions. Very few places in the country have landscapes that are
dotted with several lakes and Lake Sebu is one of them. Interestingly, sebu is the T’boli word for
"lake", thus, the upland town’s
name roughly translates to “lake-lake”. Can you beat that? LOL! 
In the silence of the town’s three lakes, tourists can
indulge themselves in emotional catharsis to the hilt. Those still bodies of
water offer silence and serenity, especially at night when only the sounds of
the wild can be heard. Visitors can commune with God and nature
for as long as they want with hardly any interruption. Of the three, however, I
find Lake Sebu as the most placid of them all.
Cruising over Lake Sebu is probably one of the most
exhilarating journeys I’ve ever had. Lasting for nearly an hour, the
spectacular joyride, which is being offered for free by some resorts dotting
the lakeside, is a must-try for those who want to experience something soothing
to the senses. (You may go over my post on the Lake Sebu cruise at http://scorpio-sojourn.blogspot.com/2011/05/lulled-by-lake-sebu.html). 
Then there’s the popular Seven Falls of Lake Sebu. Found
in the village of Seloton, these amazing wonders are considered the major
tourist attractions not only of the town but also the entire province. The
sheer beauty of the stunning series of cascades will surely take any first-time
visitor’s breath away. That’s why the local government is going to great
lengths to develop and promote them. 
Defying gravity, I’ve flown over those falls three times.
Suspended in mid-air for several seconds, I felt at some point that I’ve died
and gone to heaven! Geez, they’re
probably the ultimate cliffhangers! And I’m raring to have another one! For
more about my first experience with the zipline rides in Lake Sebu, go over http://scorpio-sojourn.blogspot.com/2010/06/sliding-above-lake-sebus-seven-falls.html.
Having said all that, I believe the province should make
it into the bucket list of every adventure-loving traveler who’s yearning to
soothe his or her soul, perhaps way up there than Singapore, Cambodia, Macau,
Hong Kong or any other foreign land. South Cotabato is a cradle of serenity and
sobriety, with interesting attractions we Mindanaoans are so proud of. Whew,
whatta province! :D
